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California
Olive Oil
News© |
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Volume 7 Issue 4 |
April / May 2004 |
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| Olive Expo 2004 | Events | |||
| The State of the Olive Industry | Mendocino Agricultural Seminar | |||
| Cooking Smells | Briefs | |||
| Sonoma Olive Festival | Comments from the Internet | |||
| <---- Previous Issue | Next Issue ----> | |||
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A Cheer for Cooking Smells A local celebrity chef was giving his 5 minute radio segment. Someone had asked which type of olive oil is best for cooking; extra virgin or a lower grade? The chef gave the answer I usually do; why heat up an expensive extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) during frying or sautéing just to have the delicate olive oil aromas sucked up the exhaust fan? Use a cheaper, essentially odorless and flavorless pure olive oil or low grade EVOO and then add a drizzle of a flavorful EVOO to the dish as it goes to the table. But maybe there is a reason for using a better oil. If those delicate aromas float around in the air are they really wasted, or do they add to the total food experience? Cooking smells are one of the reasons we gravitate to the kitchen, they can be a powerful force to bring people together, they can change our mood and advertise our cultural affiliation. In my book, the smell of food cooking beats the taste as it goes down. The tongue appreciates only salt, bitter, sweet and sour while the nose can discriminate a seemingly infinite number of odors. Taste is really a matter of smell. We can only eat for so long but we can enjoy the smell of food for hours. A meal which takes 2 hrs of preparation is consumed in 15 or 20 minutes. You begin enjoying food the minute you arrive at a friend's house for dinner and smell a potato or cake baking in the oven. When sitting in a restaurant waiting for a table food aromas pique the appetite and add to the experience. Best of all, enjoying the smell of food cooking is calorie free. We talk about how food is an important social lubricant. I would argue it's the smell of food cooking which is more important than the actual eating of the meal. The cliché of a tribe of early man sitting around a smoky fire watching a chunk of meat sizzle is validated at a backyard barbecue where ribs on a grill are poked as cold beers are consumed. There is something primitive and comforting in the combination of wood smoke and food cooking. Smells can really travel. Sometimes I wish I had smell-o-vision to watch the fragrance of coffee perking and sausage links sizzling wend its way to the back bedrooms in my house to wake my teenage kids in the morning. And those smells can stick around for hours. We have one back room which hours later tattles on my wife for burning the toast. That ability to travel lets aromas attract a crowd. People gravitate to where food is cooking. A street fair without the smell of meat on a stick and a theater without the smell of buttered popcorn wouldn't be quite the same. Cooking smells act like a beacon to attract people to the beach boardwalk to buy fudge and cotton candy. Hamburger joints aren't wasting their cooking odors by pumping them out the exhaust fan; they're advertising. Driving through a neighborhood at dinner time is a different experience with a convertible or motorcycle. Cooking smells tell you what's for dinner. You can tell who likes garlic and who's having curry. The cooking impaired who order a pizza delivery are missing out on a big part of their food experience. The oil you use for cooking is a part of your cultural heritage. Indian food has the smell of ghee, not at all like the smell of food sautéed in butter in a French kitchen. Hispanic Americans use lard while olive oil is associated with Mediterranean food. The cooking smells of your parent's kitchen can make you feel safe and comfortable. Aroma therapists claim to utilize naturally extracted aromatic essences from plants to balance, harmonize and promote the health of body, mind and spirit. While physicians may find it hard to believe that smells can change the mind, businesses are convinced. They spend millions on fragrances to sell everything from toilet paper to new cars. Cooking smells can also put you in the mood to buy a house according to a realtor friend. She swears that frying onions or baking chocolate chip cookies before an open house will perfume the air and lead to an offer. Perhaps cooking those onions in a premium extra virgin oil would get a higher offer than pure oil would.
Olive Expo 2004 Umberto Chironi-Lubelli hosted his "Olive Expo" seminar this year in Napa Valley. The expo was an informative overview of the olive oil industry in California. Giuseppe Fontanazza from Perugia, Italy described the world market; which countries grow olives and export oil, which are the big importers, etc. Argentina, Australia, New Zealand, Chile, South Africa, and California were identified as expanding areas of cultivation. He listed the marketing sectors: mass market, niche market, and elite market and what opportunities they offered to new producers. Hartley Lewis presented high density olive growing as practiced in Australia. Louise Ferguson, U.C. extension olive specialist spoke on the economic realities of olive and olive oil production. Her talk is presented below. After lunch Claudio Vignoli of Pieralisi gave an update on the latest in olive oil processing and extraction. The day was finished with an olive oil tasting and evaluation led by COOC tasting panel leader Roberto Zecca.
State of California’s Table and Olive Oil Industries, and Their Futures Louise Ferguson: Extension Specialist Currently California’s table olive industry is facing three major
challenges; the impact of manual labor, particularly pruning and
harvesting, on fruit production costs, the rapid spread of the olive
fruit fly, (OLF) and import competition. These may, or may not, pose
problems for the developing California olive oil industry. The two major factors that drive up table olive production costs are
the practices currently requiring manual labor, pruning and
harvesting. The most recent table olive cost study by Glenn County
Farm Advisor William H. Krueger and colleagues for flood irrigated
olives projected a 5 ton per acre yield with annual cash costs of
$2,403.00. Of this fertilization and manual weed control were 2%
each, disease and pest control were 3% each, irrigation was 5%, hand
pruning every other year was 8%, and hand harvest, at $275.00 per
ton, was a stunning 57% of annual cash costs. The last dwarfs all
other production costs and may in time render table olive production
unprofitable. If manual pruning and harvesting are also used for oil
olives these will be similarly high cost items in oil olive
production. Olive Fruit Fly: The olive fruit fly (OLF) is the second problem facing the
California industry. This pest was detected in Los Angeles County in
1999 and within five years is present in 51 of the 57 counties in
California. This single host pest is devastatingly effective because
it does not kill its host, destroys fruit in a way that does not
preclude production the following year, can travel significant
distances, reportedly more than six miles, can overwinter in
different developmental forms, is multigenerational within a season,
and has no natural enemies in California. Import Pressures: This is the third factor facing both the table and oil olive
industries. I will not go into the topic in detail as other speakers
at this meeting will be discussing global competition. Also, Olivae,
the magazine published quarterly by the International Olive Oil
Council in Madrid, Spain produces an excellent annual analysis of
the world’s table and oil olive industries. Relevant links:
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Sonoma Olive Festival Wrap-up Wendy Peterson
Bravo! A wonderfully successful Third Annual Olive Festival came
to a close at the Artisan Market on the Plaza. We have had great interest and attendance for all the events this
year – from the Blessing Weekend activities, Signature Sonoma and
the Artisan Market. Martini Madness was wildly successful and the
many other special events, dinners, olive oil tastings art shows
and cooking demonstrations were also well received. We had 1200 participants in the Artisan Market on the Plaza and we gathered some information from the attendees: How did you hear about the Festival? (Newspaper- 35%, TV-1%, Word of Mouth-21%, Internet-43%). Where are you from? (Sonoma Valley-24%, Sonoma Country-13%, Napa-4%, Bay Area-23%, Sacramento-5%, Other California areas- 12%, Out of State, Country-19%). We have received such positive feedback from all who attended. Mendocino Agricultural Seminar and COOC fund-raiser Held on Sunday, March 28, 2004 from 1 PM-430 PM in Hopland (Mendocino county), the seminar featured farm advisor and olive oil production expert Paul Vossen as the keynote speaker. The purpose was to educate Mendocino olive growers and introduce them to the California Olive Oil Council (COOC). Bruce Golino, COOC president first spoke briefly about the council and its activities. After a recent retreat, board members came up with three new objectives: build membership through regional meetings, increase recognition of the COOC seal, and to gather information using funds provided by a recent USDA grant to develop a marketing plan for California Olive Oil Producers. The council is also working to change federal grade standards on olive oil to align them with the rest of the world and is trying to defend against misuse of the regional and California name. Paul Vossen then presented a slide show of his recent year in Spain immersed in the culture and the olive oil business. He used the trip as a vehicle to give a broad overview of the olive oil industry. Four olive oils were tasted during the talk to illuminate points.
Paul Vossen in Spanish Attire Paul concentrated on the intensive plantings now going in with 5 x 13 foot spacing and up to 800 trees per acre. Quick and infrequent pruning is done on large wood with hand saws or chain saws. Over the row pickers mechanize the harvest and work best with varieties such as Arbequina, Arbosana and Koroneiki which fruit every year and don't become overly vegetative with intensive cultivation. In the fifth year after planting yields of 5 tons per acre are expected Mills in Spain are the most modern of any nation. The newer 2 phase decanters minimize water disposal problems and several of the mills pictured burned the pomace for cogeneration or used it for compost or animal feed. After a wine and tapas break, seminar attendees were invited to question a panel of grower/producer experts: Sue Ellery, grower and olive oil producer, Shari De Joseph, orchard manager at McEvoy Ranch, John Hadley, orchard Manager at Jordan Vineyards and Nick Oliver, Mendocino County Agricultural Departments. Questions covered everything from soil amendments to the olive fly. Executive Director Patricia Darragh reported that several new COOC members signed up at the event. COOC gets Development Grant Albert Katz, president of the California Olive Oil Council
(COOC), has announced that the COOC has been awarded a $50,000
Value-Added Agricultural Product Market Development Grant. The COOC,
the trade and marketing arm of the burgeoning California olive oil
industry, noted for establishing the Certified Extra Virgin Seal of
authentication for California olive oils, will utilize the funding
for extensive survey, research and marketing efforts aimed at
strengthening consumer awareness and understanding of the council's
Certified Extra Virgin Seal.
Comments from the Internet: Debbie Asks: I recently got a tattoo done on my right shoulder. I was told to use pure virgin olive oil on it until it heals. Is this a good thing to do? Is it safe? Dr. Deane responds: For a simple abrasion or burn, studies have shown that any sterile ointment which prevents the growing tissue margins from drying is fine. In one study Vaseline worked as well as antibacterial first aid ointments such as Neosporin or Bacitracin. Olive oil would probably work fine for this kind of injury but it doesn't stick like an ointment. A tattoo may be a different matter - a needle is repeatedly plunged through the skin, potentially carrying bacteria into deeper tissues. While olive oil has been shown to have some mild antibacterial activity in animal studies, an antibiotic ointment would make more sense. Antibiotic ointments have a stronger action and have been shown in multiple studies over decades to be safe and effective. Save the olive oil for the salad. A minor point, but you could use pure olive oil or virgin olive oil but there is no such thing as pure virgin olive oil. See definitions Elliot asks: I'm having trouble with constipation after colon cancer and have been prescribed paraffin oil. Can I substitute olive oil for the paraffin oil with the same results? Dr. Deane
Responds: Sorry, but olive oil will not work. The reason
that paraffin or mineral oils work is because the body cannot absorb them
so they pass through, softening the stool as they go. Olive oil would be
absorbed in the small intestine and would never get to the colon. OOS replies: There are several sprayers on the market which would work fine. Some are pump sprayers which work like spray cleaner bottles but the plastic is designed for oil contact. If you can't find one made specifically for oil, buy a bottle of butter-flavor or some other cooking oil spray at the market and refill with olive oil. There are some fancy ones which
used compressed air such as "Misto". In theory and in practice the oil
seems to be oxidized more quickly in this type. Keeping the container
full so there is as little compressed air as possible will help. OOS responds: Yes, deer will eat olives. Growers in rural areas often put up 10' fences around their orchard. There are hundreds of other deer deterrents - electric fences, "zoo doo", dogs, human hair, sprays, motion detectors, etc. G asks: I want to use the left over sludge from the First Pressing of Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil. I am interested in being able to use this oil/sludge in my soaps.
OOS
responds: With a three phase system you get olive
oil, olive water and pomace. With a two phase system you get oil and
watery pomace. Pomace is a mixture of the pits, skins, and olive
flesh. It looks like what you would get if you mulched garden trimmings.
It has a tiny amount of residual oil in it which can be removed with steam and
solvents - pomace oil. That oil is commonly used for soap-making. There
is no sludge. Events April SOL/Vinitaly
April 1 - April 5th 2004, Verona
Italy
SOL is the largest and unique specialist
international show dedicated exclusively to quality extra
virgin olive oil. Olive Oil Production Short Course April 1 & 2, 2004 UC Davis, CA Learn how to grow olives for commercial olive oil production, taught by UC Cooperative Extension farm advisors and specialists, covers California and world olive production trends and oil varieties; land selection and preparation, irrigation and fertility management, mechanical harvest alternatives, super high density systems, pest control including olive fruit fly management, marketing olive oil in california. Focus is on production of olives for oil, not on processing of olives into oil. $475 includes two lunches, one social dinner with speaker, tastings, field trip and course materials. enroll in section 034FST301. Course is at Best Western Bonanza Inn, 1001 Clark Ave, Yuba City, CA Deadline for submission - Olive Oil of the World competition - LA county Fair April 20, 2004 more The Olive Food and Wine Festival - Olyffees 30 April & 1 May 2004 Prince Albert South Africa more May Planting Olive Trees/ Olive Oil Appreciation May 1 9:30-3:30 Santa Rosa Junior College in CA. Dennis Black presents History of the olive tree, principles of growing olive trees, techniques of making olive oil, how to appreciate different kinds of olive oil from Spain, Italy and California, the olive fly, A formal olive oil tasting will be part of the class and will be conducted by members of the California Olive Oil Council Call 1-707-527-4372 from more information All Things Organic May 2-4, 2004 McCormick Place, Chicago, North America's only all organic conference and trade show more 2nd Annual Feast of the Noble Fruit: Olives, 5 course luncheon at Global Gardens ranch and olive grove May 29th in Los Alamos, CA. The luncheon will feature our entire product line and focus specifically on unique olive oil dishes produced by chef Jeff Olsen of New West Catering. Tickets are $95. And can be obtained by emailing theo@globalgardensgifts.com or calling 800.307.0447. This is a SlowFood USA event June Tiam 2004 June 4-7 2004 Bari Italy Gardening products, Mechanized picking, Plastic nets and cases, Extraction technologies, Stainless steel containers and vats, Bottling machines, Glass bottles, Labeling machines, Packaging, labeling and bottling, Equipments for testing olives and oils more July Kirkpinar Olive Oil Wrestling - second week of July in Edirne, Turkey September Euro Fed Lipid Congress September 5-8, 2004, Edinburgh University ScotlandV International Symposium on Olive Growing September 27 - October 2, 2004,(Turkey) Info: Dr. Mucahit Taha Ozkaya, University of Ankara, Faculty of Agriculture, Department of Horticulture, 06100 Ankara, Turkey. Phone: (90)5355264860, Fax: (90)3123179119, email: ozkaya@agri.ankara.edu.tr web: www.agri.ankara.edu.tr October Cañada College Arts & Olive Festival Sunday, October 3rd Redwood City, CA November FEVAL - Don Benit Badajoz Spain, November 10 - 13, 2004 . FIAL. Feria Ibérica de la Alimentación. APIBERIA. Feria Internacional de Apicultura EIMA International Agricultural and Gardening Machinery Manufacturers Exhibition, Bologna, Italy November, 2004
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