2002 - 2003 Harvest Year Blending Notes
Steven Dambach

Apollo Olive Oil owner Steven Dambach has given us his blending notes on this year's harvest.  Apollo has an advantage over many producers in that they have 37 varieties planted.  With their own press available at any time, picking, pressing and blending can occur at any stage of ripeness. Besides using his own press, Steven has experimented with several Northern California commercial presses using stone mill vs. toothed grinder, 3 phase separation with recycled vegetable water vs. fresh, centrifugal final separation vs. gravity, etc.  This sort of curiosity and research is what makes California olive oils so great.

 At Apollo Olive Oil, we are very big on blending. My particular enthusiasm is for the variety of great olive oils that can be produced--lightly fruity, buttery, green and pungent, highly perfumed, strongly bitter—and how they interact with different kinds of food. We have many different varieties now in or approaching production, and our press has the capacity for small batching

Though we hardly ever see them in the US, there are some terrific oils made around the Mediterranean. And these oils have very different styles: softly fruity in Tarragona and Liguria, buttery in Nyons, highly structured in Perugia. Each region has its history, and this history makes for the occasional deep and sensitive miller. But it also makes for provincial thinking, and a lack of curiosity about other olive varieties and other styles of oil. Our passion is this exploration.
Now, California does have a modest history of oil-making, and it does have established varieties. These varieties can and do make interesting oils. But these varieties do not make, on their own, a truly world-class style. Our best oil variety, the Mission, has wonderful structural properties: good bitterness and strong, lasting pungency. But the Mission lacks a balancing fruit character. Ascolano and Sevillano can add a bit of perfume and some gentle fruit, and some millers (myself included) have constructed oils using small percentages of these varieties. Though they contribute something positive, however, both of these latter varieties are very expensive to mill (low oil yield) and not perfectly matched to the flavor requirements of Mission. Early experiments have shown that other varieties might combine perfectly with Mission to make a truly world-class oil.

We have 42 varieties of oil olives, imported from various places around the Mediterranean. The first of these were planted in 1997, and five of these varieties (Leccino, Frantoio, Salonenque, Picholine and Aglandau) yielded enough fruit this past harvest to make an individual batch possible. We are hopeful that an additional five to ten varieties will be sufficiently productive in 2003, and that we can set up more scientific trials to isolate flavor factors. We look forward to a day when we can clearly see which can contribute to the California blend, which can stand on their own, and which might create delicious combinations not yet seen around the world.

Our press facility is set up to make these explorations possible. Our stone mill processes from 300-370 lbs per batch (depending on moisture content of the fruit). This means that with small quantities of any given variety, we can make a controlled and specific sample of the oil that it yields. These samples are kept in separate stainless steel drums until we feel confident of their character, and are then used to construct final blends.

The Mission Variety

We begin pressing when color cues (of the skin and pulp) indicate what we call “early maturity”. In Mission, at least up in our foothill climate, this tends to happen in mid-November. The oil produced tends to have a strongly bitter character. It also tends to have excellent fruit flavor BEHIND the bitterness. We value this early oil because of its structural qualities (it lasts long in the mouth, and makes the oil very stable for the course of 18 months or so), because of its strong grassiness (and our organic customers are appreciative of antioxidant values), and because of the flavors which begin to emerge from behind the bitterness during the oil’s evolution.
The very first pressings of the season tend to have some less pleasant bitter characteristics, as though something is still not completely formed. But the moment that this passes is the optimum moment for strong, early Mission character. This year, this little window of opportunity was smaller than usual, primarily because these less pleasant bitters held on past the first phases of color change.
Most Mission producers press later, once the bitter has somewhat abated. The reasoning is that the American consumer doesn’t react positively to bitter, and that is hard to argue. But to my mind, it also bypasses the Mission’s finest qualities. By operating from a negative viewpoint (avoiding bitter), it yields an oil of little positive character.

Very late harvest Mission, though, reveals another strength of the variety, when it softens to the point where gentle, green-apple aromas emerge. We can usually capture some of these flavors/aromas in early January. This year, the bitter continued strong through our last pressing, which was January 21st. From what I have tasted of other late harvest producers, this is a general phenomenon. It is quite possible that these flavors emerged in February or March, and I would be interested to taste such an oil.

2002-2003 Harvest

It was not just with Mission that our fruit showed a higher level of bitterness than we had seen in previous years. Ascolano and Sevillano held onto bitterness past the point where they contributed positive fruit (we therefore used very little of them in our final blends). But more than compensating for this fact was the overall increase in intensity of fruit flavor. Mission, Leccino, Salonenque, Aglandau, Frantoio and Picholine all showed strong and lovely fruit.

Climactic conditions no doubt contributed to fruit character, in ways we do not yet understand. Additional contributions were made by our milling practices, which continue to evolve. This year we were even more careful with inert gas (even closing in the stone mill), we racked more frequently, we used a peristaltic pump to move the oil, and we experimented with not centrifuging some batches (separating, instead, by gravity). All of these factors probably contributed at least a little to more flavor and texture extraction. (In no case, however, will they have contributed to higher bitterness.)
Our practice is to separate each batch into separate stainless steel drums. As the drums fill, we keep tasting them to see which can appropriately be combined. Batches of a similar character are pumped into a larger (1000 liter) tank. By this season’s end, we had three tanks mostly full--one with early Mission flavors, one with late Mission flavors, one with a highly fruity, buttery blend of French varietals—and 18 drums with what we call “blending elements”. Very early Ascolano filled two of these drums, our first production of Frantoio/Leccino another, a particularly aromatic batch of Salonenque another, and so on.

We started out with the idea of making a “Sierra Blend” based on the Mission, and a “Mistral Blend” based on French varietals. After all, we had won Gold and Silver Medals, respectively, in each of the last two years with these blends at the L.A.County Fair. We were also on the look-out for new possibilities should they present themselves.

Edward, the Blender

My enthusiasm for oil far outstrips the capacity of my sensory apparatus to make sensitive blends. The real blender is a fellow named Edward Schulten. Raised in Holland, the scion of a wine importing family, Edward went to Bordeaux in his youth to learn the craft of wine-making. His palate was so talented that he was lured away by fancy restaurants to serve as sommelier. He made a lot of money in big cities around the States, but eventually gave it up to do what he loved most: to make wine. Fortunately for me, he relocated here. Fortunate in two ways: his wine is always sold out to those “in the know”, and I fall into that category; and also because he is intrigued by my experiments in oil and is unfailingly generous with his help.

Here is how he goes about it:

In the early stages of production (through November), we meet after every day’s milling to sample the results. Edward thinks in terms of possibilities. If he particularly likes the flavors or quality of pungency in a day’s batch, he will ask me to go out and pick twice as much the following day. Similarly, he might ask us to shut down operations for a few days.

Once a number of barrels are filled, Edward sets up his tasting table. Once a week I bring fresh samples of each batch to his house (the smells are too confusing to do this work at the press). He sets them up in little cups and, with a syringe, takes measured amounts of each and begins to play.

When blending gets really serious in January, he can be seen with as many as forty sample cups arrayed like a control panel in front of him, and a complex chart which he makes scribbled notes on. He gets excited at this time, like a bloodhound on the trail. This is an extraordinary time of education for me, working side by side with him, discussing, arguing and taking the occasional nap (his stamina for this work far exceeds mine!). The final blends usually emerge in the dead of night. If in the clear light of the following day we still like them, they become our new oils.

A new blend for next year?

Leccino and Frantoio: Both picked in mid-November, yielded the typical tarry bitter of Tuscany, and lovely fruit flavor. This is highly encouraging, since it shows that the varietal character travels well to the Sierra Foothills. It is even more encouraging for the degree of fruitiness. Higher elevation olives in Tuscany tend to yield more fruit, and our hope is that our similar elevation will do the same. As expected, these varieties have their own uniqueness and so we do not add them to our Sierra and Mistral Blends. They will, in the future, most likely be released as their own, Tuscan-style product (this year’s production has already been consumed!)

Steven hosts a bi monthly gathering of California foothill olive growers and producers, usually on Sundays. Give him a call if you are interested in becoming a part of this passionate group. 530-692-2314 info@apollooliveoil.com

California Taste Panel Gives High Marks to Arbequina and Arbosana
By Paul Vossen (University of California)

The first IOOC (COI) recognized taste panel outside the Mediterranean region recently tasted oils made from the Arbequina and Arbosana varieties grown in California. Samples were tasted blind by eight members of the official California Taste Panel who rated the oil according to the IOOC (COI) methodology plus the EU (CE) rating scale of 1-9. The Arbequina oil received a fruity intensity rating of 5.00, a bitterness rating of 2.55, and a pungency rating of 3.95. It was given an overall number rating of 7.76 as an extra virgin oil. This is clearly an oil that will last several months and maintain a high level of flavor for a long time. The fruity character was also indicated as being slightly grassy and herbal along with an undertone flavor of ripe tropical fruit, apple, and fresh artichoke. It is harmonious oil with very deep complex flavors.

The Arbosana was also a very good extra virgin oil with a number rating of 7.67. It was given a fruity intensity of 4.45, a bitterness intensity of 3.25, and a pungency rating of 4.70. It was an oil with less complexity in flavor compared to the Arbequina with most of the flavor being in the grassy herbal category. The Arbosana oil was also rated higher in bitterness and pungency than the Arbequina oil. The style of the single variety Arbosana oil is similar to the strong pungent oils from central Italy that have become famous among some chefs and consumers in America.

Beyond the technical numbers given to these oils by the taste panel experts, American consumers who have tasted these oils really like them. In two recent consumer sensory evaluation training courses for olive oil, these two oils rated as the favorites for many of the attendees. There is something for everyone in the Arbequina and Arbosana oils. Those who like very fruity oils with little bitterness and pungency fall quickly in love with Arbequina. Consumers who favor oils with more bitterness and strong pungency really like the overall flavor of the Arbosana oil.

The California taste panel was started in 1997 by Paul Vossen, a University of California olive oil researcher and educator with the help of Juan Ramon Izquierdo, Jefe de Seccion de Aceites y Grasas – Laboratorio Arbitral Agroalimentario – MAPA de Madrid, Espanya. The taste panel members were selected using IOOC (COI) standard procedures for determining tasting thresholds and identification of olive oil defects. The panel was later joined by Roberto Zecca, who received training in Italy and together Vossen and Zecca are co-panel heads for the California Panel. The 22 members of the panel had been tasting oils during training sessions twice per month for five years before they became recognized officially by the IOOC (COI) by passing their established test for taste panels in 2000-2001. They were also recognized by the IOOC (COI) for 2002-2003.

The members of the panel include olive oil producers, processors, merchants, and some general consumers that have excellent palates for tasting olive oil. Some of the tasters are: Nancy Ash, who is a private business and marketing consultant for olive oil producers; Arden Kremer who has a family olive nursery and wine business; Dean Wilkinson is in the food import business; Marvin Martin is a wine country chef and boutique olive oil producer; and Julie Menge is a consumer, who previously worked as a taster for the Campbell Soup company. There are many others who as volunteers have offered their time to help establish the internationally recognized standards for olive oil in America. They have also worked very hard and devoted a great deal of time to providing group tasting results for the California Olive Oil Council Extra Virgin Certification Seal Program that awards a special bottle sticker to oils that meet the sensory profile as extra virgin oils. This article originally seen in  Olint Magazine and reprinted by permission

Unique Olive Oil Bar

Stella Cadente Olive Oil Company will be opening their Olive Oil Bar in the 3-Wineries Tasting Room (opposite the Boonville Hotel) on April 19. This unique Bar will offer bulk purchase extra virgin olive oils such as Meyer Lemon, Jalapeno, “Everyday cooking”, Early Harvest Mission, their popular Estate Blend winner of many prestigious awards, and more. Recipes will be attached with each oil purchased. They will also carry soaps made with their own olive oil and lavender, as well as other olive oil related products. Shooting Star Ranch, where Stella Cadente’s Italian olive trees and lavender reside is tended organically, consistent with the owners’ philosophy of living.

“We have had many people locally asking us to sell bulk olive oil, because in today's economy it makes more sense to save money by cutting out expensive packaging” said Tom Hunter, co-owner of Stella Cadente. “This is to primarily serve our local market since we are continuing to expand our current bottled extra virgin olive oil business throughout California and other states”.

Stella Cadente test marketed this novel idea throughout 2002 at various events in Mendocino County and decided to move ahead with opening their Olive Oil Bar after their new harvest, pressing and bottling is completed for 2003.

Their 2002 Estate Blend won a gold medal at the L.A. County Fair Olive Oils of the World Competition and they have been the recipient of 11 awards including a #1 California Extra Virgin Olive Oil rating from Slowfood in Italy.

For more information on Stella Cadente Olive Oil Company call 707-895-2848 or visit their website at www.stellacadente.com
 

Olive Fly Update

Olive fly activity this year - Agricultural Advisors 2002 Season-Total Olive Fruit Fly Trap Counts -California Olive Committee Olive Fruit Fly Project Northern Region.  Data shows total counts from 8 sites.  In Napa, fly counts are much higher this year.  The section 18 approval for the attract and kill trap expired 3/1/03 so cannot currently be used.  Fly counts in areas of the central valley where GF 120 was used last season are much lower than untreated areas, showing smaller over wintering populations.

Website Updates

New or updated Pages:

Mill and Press Facts
Climate Zones for Growing Olives
Olive Varietals - many more varietals now (649 at last count), many with links to extensive information

 

Complete Olive Oil Pressing Line - Used

Alfa Laval 3/4 ton/hr throughput $164,000. Olive collection bin Elevator Washer and Deleafer unit Toothed mill 2 malaxation tanks 1 horizontal decanter 1 vertical separator 1 Vibro filter 1 Electrical control panel FOB California Call the Olive Oil Source for details - 805-688-1014 or

Annual COOC 2003 Members Meeting

Bruce Cohn hosted a beautifully catered lunch under the lofty Picholine olive trees at his Glen Ellen Winery March 30.  Members were able to swap this year's oil production stories over neuvo oil donated by attending producers.  The excellent wines and temperate weather was also courtesy BR Cohn.

After the food and socializing President Albert Katz introduced Patricia Darragh as the new Executive director and went over the year's achievements.  The COOC sponsored a booth manned by member producers at its first National Association for the Specialty Food Trade (NASFT) show, gaining exposure to the over 10,000 food retailers who attended.  Many producers have reported follow-up orders and interest. 

The COOC also gave a Sensory Evaluation of Olive Oil class for retailers.  They were challenged to go back to their store shelves, taste the oil on them and then toss out and refuse to carry the 50% of the oils which are of inferior quality. The seminar was such as success that NASFT has invited the COOC to give the seminar at the New York Fancy Food show.

Board members Bruce Golino and Tom Sloan were credited for revising the seal agreement.  It had been noted that a tired tasting oil with a very old (1999) but undated COOC seal was seen being sold at a high discount in Northern California stores.  The seal now carries a date and there are mechanisms for better enforcing the seal agreement.

Albert recognized public relations officer Leslie Newman for recent press releases and Sue Ellery, Patricia and others for their work on the website.  Greg Reisinger and Ridgley Evers have worked on the website and label enforcement issues.

Guest Kimberly Stewart, a food writer, spoke about her recent article in Better Nutrition magazine about fraud in the olive oil industry.  She cited the successful class action suit in the New York Supreme court against Unilever, manufacturer of Bertolli olive oil.  They labeled the oil as "Imported from Italy" when the oil was actually Tunisian, Turkish, or Spanish oil just passing through Italian ports.  She also talked about recent difficulties in detecting olive oils watered down with cheap hazelnut oil.  Because of its similarity spectrographically, it is difficult to detect this type of tampering.  The Middle East press recently reported that Turkey's largest oil producer, LIO, was found guilty of tampering with ship manifests, currently the most common type of fraud occurring. Olive and hazelnut blended oils were shipped to Argentina and Brazil.  Somewhere in mid-Atlantic the blend changed into olive oil.  Click for full article

A heated question and answer period ensued.  President Katz related receiving legal threats against the COOC for exposing questionable practices here in California where oil improperly labeled as from California violated SB 920 which deals with appellation.  COOC legal liaison Tom Sloan clarified the COOC position on these issues.

Seventy oils have been submitted for approval under the COOC seal program, a record number.

U.C extension olive expert Paul Vossen spoke about the olive fly, and plans a "Spanish Experience Day" around June 1 to talk about his year in Cordoba.  He related how the COOC seal program in California mirrors efforts in Europe to create stricter labeling through Italian DOP or Spanish DO initialisms.  He also urged growers to lobby their representatives to keep funding for the extension program during the current state budget shortfall.

LA County Fair Olive Oil Competition

Reminder from Patty at the COOC:  The COOC Panel of Tasters has been invited to judge again at the fourth OLIVE OILS OF THE WORLD COMPETITION. This is a great event and we hope that you will participate. The deadline to submit oil is May 1st. If you have not received a packet from the Fairplex please advise me and I will forward the necessary paperwork to you.

The Fairplex has hired a new public relations firm for the competition. We can expect a noticeable increase in press and media exposure.

contact: Patty at oliveoil@cooc.com