For decades large California
olive orchards have supplied
fruit to the ripe olive industry
using sophisticated economies of
scale common to other cash
crops. More recently small
orchards of
oil
olives
have sprung up that use
traditional
varieties and
100 year old
planting and
harvesting technologies.
These anachronisms are felt to
produce the best oil for the
small niche markets the
producers sell to.
There is a new breed of
California olive farmer that
thinks that the history and
romance of the olive has clouded
the normal big thinking of
California farmers. They are
advocating high yield, early
producing dwarf varieties
planted in high-density orchards
that can be mechanically
harvested.
Why not turn olives into a high
tech crop like cotton, almonds
and citrus?
2 year
old trees at California
Olive Ranch
Although a
new
idea for California,
this has been the state of the
art for years in serious olive
producing regions of Spain,
Italy, Argentina, Australia,
etc. A large Spanish olive oil
concern, Agromillora, has
started a pilot orchard in
Oroville; California Olive
Ranch, and is encouraging the
sale of dwarf hybrids through
local nurseries.
The mantra of these nurseries is
that with their varieties and
planting schemes, farmers can
expect early
maturing trees,
efficient
harvests,
and greater
yields per acre
of an excellent character
oil.
Can it really be done?
Lets examine each of
these claims.
Time to first fruiting is an
important consideration as there
is a substantial capital
investment in an orchard and the
return on this investment is
wanted sooner, not later. Olive
trees now being offered by
California nurseries are rooted
stem cuttings from a part of the
tree that will yield sooner (see
propagating page).
The high yield camp advertises
that their trees will begin
producing the second year with
full cropping by the 5th year.
(Full
cropping is a bit of semantics.
Part of the
reason they are at “full
crop” at 5 years
is
because they won’t get any
bigger or you aren’t letting
them get any bigger.)
Three
year old tree - early
fruiting variety
Efficient harvesting is a
laudable goal. The largest
variable cost associated with
olive orchards is labor. When
they say efficient, hear
mechanized. While most
California olive farmers are
waiting for U.C.
Davis and others to come up with
a mechanical harvester, high
yield farmers are simply
importing or using existing
equipment. Many of these
machines are over the row grape
harvesters. Large trees require
large, expensive, bulky
harvesters driving over
perfectly flat land. By using
dwarf varieties, pruning to 7
feet and cultivating in rows,
the trees can be harvested with
a reasonably small and nimble
straddle type harvester. Sierra
Gold nursery claims that two men
with a grape harvester and a
bank-out can harvest 1- 1.5
acres per hour.
California Olive Ranch in
CA - trellis system
Grape harvesters are available
in California. Farmers who
already own this equipment may
be interested in another crop
that ripens later than the
grapes but which use the same
harvesting equipment. Intensive
cultivation olives may share
staking, trellising, irrigation
and fertilization set ups with
grapes.
Greater yields per acre are
achieved several ways. There are
more trees per acre and trees
are of high yield types such as
Arbequina, Arbequina IRTA I-18
and Arbosana I-43. Agromillora’s
model
California Olive Ranch has a
typical planting scheme; a 13 by
5 foot grid with 670 trees to
the acre. Yields are increased
with automated drip irrigation
with fertilizer injection
containing nutrients specific
for soil conditions at the site.
NursTech, Inc executive director
Xavier Marques reports that
yields can reach 5-7 tons per
acre in average on mature
blocks.
Excellent quality oil is
determined by variety, fruit
maturity, time to processing and
subsequent handling. Of these,
the only factor different in
intensive cultivation setups is
the variety. According to
Professor Fontanazza of CNR
Institute in Perugia these
plants are designed to grow
slowly, mature early and bear
abundantly with an olive which
has good yield
of an acceptable
high antioxidant, low peroxide
oil which can then be blended
with more flavorful oils.
Basically you are making a good
blend stock that can be sold
as-is to satisfy the typical
U.S. palate or blended with
more flavorful oils for the
gourmet.
Soil and ground preparation in
still important. University of
California Cooperative Extension
expert
Paul Vossen says “Olives will
grow where nothing else will
grow” is one of the biggest
myths of olive oil growing.
Intensive cultivation proponents
insist that their clones do well
even in marginal soil types.
Soils must be analyzed and
deficiencies addressed in the
fertilizer injection systems.
Water use can be efficient if
drip systems are used. Drip line
emitters can be on the trellis
or underground. California Olive
Ranch uses one 1200 GPM output
well on their entire 733 acres.
Pruning can
be very labor intensive.
The new varieties are slow
growing. A central leader
is trained to keep the bearing
areas between 2 and 7 feet above
the orchard floor.
Mechanized hedge trimmers are
used in some orchards
Straddle Type Harvester
John Slaughter at Burchell
Nursery, Inc. thinks that
intensive cultivation olives
could be an option for farmers
discouraged by poor cotton,
raisin, grape and almond prices
as these crops share some of the
same farming challenges. He
feels that the only thing
keeping it from happening in his
area of the central valley is
lining up mills to process the
olives on a contract basis. Many
large orchards could swamp the
existing olive mills and farmers
may be reluctant to plant
without a home for their
product.
For a devil’s advocate view,
consider some points made by
Brian Chatterton
of
Italy.
The cost of the tree for a
high-density grove may be higher
than the cost of the land if
land costs are low. In Italy, as
in Napa valley, land prices
might be 20 times higher than
Australia or parts of the
California Sierra foothills.
High density planting certainly
makes economic sense in
high land
value situations, as it
is a good return on land even
though it might not be a good
return on trees.
Thought must go into your
particular situation to see if
intensive planting makes sense.
Using assumptions of 6 tons/acre
yield, $14 per gallon drum price
with 40 gallons yield of oil per
ton, Sierra Gold predicts that
there will be a positive cash
flow by year three and a
positive accumulated net revenue
by year six. Nick Sciabica of
Sciabica and Sons olive mill in
Modesto thinks that while $14
per gallon
may be a good price for
California oil, it is still
expensive compared to good
imported extra virgin oil. The
market for more expensive
California oil needs to be
improved.
Darrell Corti,
president of Corti Brothers
thinks that the market for olive
oil in the U.S. is still huge.
Interviewed in Olint,
Agromillora's quarterly
magazine, he states that the
average U.S. consumer will
probably like the blander oils
made by the dwarf clones but
warns that like Europe, there
are many niche markets. If an
affordable and good quality
California oil can be made, it
could take sales from the
imports and induce some
Americans to switch from other
oils.
Resources for those interested
in high density orchards:
Several recent studies help
confirm previous olive oil
health claims. A small study at
the University of Barcelona in
Spain showed that 2 tablespoons
of virgin olive oil a day for
one week lowered oxidation of
LDL (“bad”) cholesterol and
raised levels of antioxidants in
study participants. Antioxidants
are one of the components in the
Mediterranean diet believed to
lead to less heart disease.
Besides olive oil, antioxidants
are found in fruit, vegetables,
tea and wine.
In an unrelated study by
investigators at the US National
Cancer Institute cancer-prone
mice were fed either a
restricted-calorie diet or a
diet rich in olive oil, fruits
and vegetables. Mice on the
olive oil diet developed 40%
fewer polyps and mice eating the
calorie restricted diet were up
to 60% less likely to develop
pre-cancerous colon polyps
compared with mice fed regular
diets. People aren’t mice but it
wouldn’t hurt to restrict
calories, eat more vegetables
and fruits and substitute olive
oil for other fats while we wait
for the human studies.
According to Asia Pulse, the
Pakistan Oilseeds Development
Board (PODB) is interested in
raising incomes of farmers and
reducing edible oil imports by
producing olive oil. The project
has targeted areas of Punjab and
Baluchistan. Wild trees that
already grow in government-owned
forests would be grafted with
European-type olive varieties.
There are thought to be over 40
million wild olive trees, 8
million of which would be
grafted to oil type varieties.
The olive oil would be exported
at high prices to buy cheaper
but unhealthy palm oil for
Pakistanis.
Unilever Bestfoods UK is embarking on a door-drop campaign for its Bertolli Olive Oil brand. Some 1 million sachets of Bertolli Gentile or Delicato Olive Oil will be distributed over five days
New Olive Oil Spread
Dairy Crest is introducing a new olive oil based spread in the UK to be called Argento.
Olive for the State Fruit of CA?
Several candidates for state fruit are being promoted: zinfandel grape, orange, and the olive being among them.
Olive Crop Estimated
Farm Advisor Emeritus Steve Sibbitt predicts the olive crop at 80-90k tons, less than 2001. The next crop estimate will be at the July COC meeting in Fresno.
Homeowners Sacrifice Olive Trees
In Tulare county, the largest olive growing county in CA, homeowners voted to remove alldecorative olive trees to help combat the olive fly.
The California Olive Growers Cooperativereports making 5000 gallons of olive oil their first year.
Olive Fruit Fly Update-Pit Hardening in southern counties
The COOC has warned members that it is time to start the bait treatments in some regions. See the olive fly page for full details.
New EU rules
The European Union (EU) published new rules to come into force on November 1 to classify olive oil products. They divide olive oil products into four categories: extra pure, pure, refined-pure mixture, and refined, and demanded that labels of olive oil products include definitions of their categories.
Don DeLeonardis
of D&V nurserydies April 27, 2002
in
Visalia at age 63
A reader asks: For health reasons, my doctor has suggested I use extra virgin olive oil instead of regular vegetable oil because of it being much more healthy for me. My question is that if as an example a recipe calls for using 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil, does this mean I should use 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil or is the conversion different? It's nice that my doctor has recommended this, but I cannot find any information that would answer my question if a conversion to a different amount of extra virgin olive oil is necessary or if it is equivalent to the same amount of vegetable oil (2 tablespoons vegetable oil is the same as 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, etc.).
OOS replies: Olive oil is a vegetable oil. All vegetable oils are equal as far as recipes are concerned - there is no conversion factor. There would be a conversion if you are going from a solid shortening to a liquid one, as in margarine, lard or butter. See the recipes link for more information.
Mac asks: I would like to know of any benefits to owning an olive orchard. We have 2-3 acres of existing trees which have not been harvested in years. Does the State of California or the Federal Government offer any incentives to revive the old orchard?
OOS responds: You may be interested in pruning the trees and ranching the olives yourself, or If there are other growers in your area who harvest, they may be interested in harvesting yours if you have the right variety, etc. Our government does not encourage olive oil production and in fact discourages it in some ways, such as its lack of support for the most common olive pest, the olive fly. You may want to put an ad in the newsletter (free) to see if anyone is interesting in buying or leasing your olive property.
Larry Asks: Should olive oil always be kept refrigerated? That seems inconvenient. Yet a quart or half-gallon of olive oil that's been in the cupboard for a few months seems to taste rancid. It seems to me this rancidity (oxidation) would completely reverse the many health-enhancing virtues of olive oil, and perhaps even make it unhealthy. I looked around the Internet to find out about this, and finally decided to ask you since you are the experts.
OOS responds:Olive oil kept in a cool cupboard in the dark should keep at least a year if unopened. Once opened it will oxidize within months to a year depending on the amount of air exposed to the oil and the original age of the oil. A tall bottle which is half full isn't as bad as a wide bottle with a bit of oil at the bottom. Oxidation uses up some of the natural antioxidants in the oil but it doesn't change its basic structure. For instance, it is still a monosaturated fat which is healthier than butter or margarine. Remember that all oils go rancid, not just olive oil. Because of its natural antioxidants, olive oil is less prone to rancidity than many other oils.
"Auto-oxidation" occurs in the absence of air and is prevented by these natural anti-oxidants. Oil from green olives have higher levels of anti-oxidants and some varieties naturally have higher levels than others. Blending an oil high in antioxidants with a more bland oil can greatly extend its shelf life. Auto-oxidation proceeds slowly until all anti-oxidants are used up at which time the oil quickly becomes rancid. Sometimes an old oil will taste fine when first exposed to the air but a few weeks later can taste old and oxidized whereas a new oil will last for many months after opening. If your oil is going bad quickly look for a brand with a date of pressing. Many markets aren't picky about the way they store oils - I've seen oils on the top of hot deli cases or under heat lamps. Who knows if the oil was sitting in a box out back in the sun for a few months. Try to buy a good brand from a reputable source.
Nancy asks: I have a question regarding growing an olive tree that I hope is not too crazy for you to answer. I have read your web site information and other sites on how to propagate olive trees. I would like to know if it's possible to grow an olive tree in a container, so that it could grow part of the year outdoors and during the cold part of the year indoors.
OOS replies: Olive trees can make beautiful potted plants. With a big enough pot they can be up to 8 feet tall and very bushy. Olive roots tend to grow to where the water is. Trees grown in arid desert areas of the Mediterranean send roots deep to get water. Trees grown in orchards with drip irrigation have
shallow roots.
I have seen little olive bonsai trees no more than a foot tall with a few olives on them. The size of the tree is limited by the effort of hoisting everything inside in the winter.
You can try to grow a cutting off of a tree in your area, order from the tree vendors page or ask your local nursery. If you want olive fruit avoid the fruitless variety commonly used for landscaping. Most olive varieties will grow from the pit but 5% germination may be considered good (you can't use a pit from a brined or pickled olive) and the seedling will grow very slowly compared to a rooted cutting. I don't know any companies selling olive pits for growing. Truncheons are a pretty reliable way to grow olives; chop out a section of olive root or branch and put it into moist soil until shoots burst out of it.
Robin asks: I live in Kenya. Would it be possible to grow olive trees commercially on the equator at approx 7,000 feet ?
The Olive Oil Source replies: Olives need cold winter weather to induce fruiting but days of hard frost will kill them. A Mediterranean climate is the best generalization of the preferred climate. Humidity is not good as they suffer from various fungal diseases which are worse in humid environments. Too much water in poorly draining soil will be detrimental as they don't like wet feet. Different varieties have different preferences. I would look at a climate map and choose varieties which have done well in similar climates even if that is on another continent. Talk to plenty of people, you should subscribe to the Yahoo One-list on Olive Oil and post your query.
Andrew Asks: I own a 13-acre farm on the Eastern Shore of Virginia (across the Chesapeake bridge from Virginia Beach) and was looking for information about whether it would be possible to grow olives there with a view to producing oil. The farm overlooks the Atlantic ocean, so it receives an ocean breeze (gale force at times.) The soil is sandy and drains well, so there is little danger of the olives getting wet feet. However, I have only seen olives grown in rocky Mediterranean soils, so I'm not sure whether they would thrive in this environment, plus Virginia does get fairly cold during the winter.
Do you have any advice on the feasibility of growing olives in this climate? If so, what is the best varietal for the area?
OOS replies: Cold tolerance will be your biggest challenge. Olive trees don't tolerate snow or freezing temperatures for more than a few days. Go to the FAO search page to search for a variety with the characteristics you wish. Then go to our grower page to find a grower who can provide you with that variety.
Betty Pustarfi presents
olive oil and aceto
balsamico at the
National Association of
Catering Executives (NACE)
2002 Educational
Conference,July 14-17, 2002,
Charleston Place Hotel,
Charleston, SC.
(www.nace.net)
August
IFOAM
2002 The 14th Organic
World Congress in Canada 15-27
August 2002
Victoria BC, Canada contact: IFOAM 2002,
Building 20, 8801 East
Saanich Road, Sidney BC,
V8L 1H3, Canada email:
ifoam2002@cog.ca
13th Annual Corning Olive Festival - August 19 - 23, 2002 more info
September
Carmel Tomato fest Sunday 15 Sept. 12:30 - 4:30 at Quail Lodge Resort. International Olive Oil Tasting featuring extra virgin olive oils from 8 countries, "The Italian Pavilion" with foods and olive oils from Italy, Live music $75 after May1 www.tomatofest.com or call 888-989-8171
5th Annual Cañada College Arts & Olive Festival September 28 & 29 of this year. The community college is located in Redwood City, CA ( Silicon Valley North) and is on Farm Hill Blvd off HWY 280. More info to follow. Website is: www.olivefest.org
October
Apollo Olive Oil Olive Harvest Festival - more info to come.
California Olive Field Day 2002 - In 1999, our entrepreneur customer California Olive Ranch, Inc. bought more than 700 acres of rangeland in Butte County, CALIFORNIA, to develop a world-class olive orchard for the production of superior Extra Virgin Olive Oil. An innovative model of cultivation (Hedge row system) is used, not only to solve the high cost associated with hand harvesting, but also to improve the quality of the final product. See an olive orchard mechanically harvested, the olives processed in the largest and most sophisticated olive oil processing plant in the U.S. and finally taste the result of this hard work, a fragrant, delicate and flavorful extra virgin olive oil. Also present: Mr. Albert Katz (President of the California Olive Oil Council), Mr. Roberto Zecca (Leader of the California Olive Oil Council taste panel), Mr. Paul Vossen (University of California Davis, Extension Farm Advisor) and Mr. Darrell Corti (wine and olive oil expert).
For reservations please contact:
Sierra Gold Nurseries (October 16th) 1-800-243-GOLD or
The Burchell Nursery, Inc. (October 17th) 1-800-828-TREE
November
Olitech Olive cultivation and processing technology November 2-4, Parma, Italy
2002 California Farm Conference November 2002 Info
The Ultimate Tuscan Experience: Superb Wines & Olive Oil Harvest Nov - 9-15 wine and olive oil tour - for info
EIMA International Machinery Manufacturers Exhibitions - November 16-19, 2002 Bologna
December
Morocco Olive
Festival,
Rafai
Mid-December
(Fez Province)
more info
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