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Definitions: |
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The Trouble with Definitions.
There are many governing bodies which
attempt to define olive oil. The European Communities
has a different definition than the International Olive Oil
Council (IOOC). Most countries use the IOOC standards.
The U.S. is one of the few major markets which has not
adopted the IOOC definitions. Instead the
USDA has a 1948 classification which uses terms such as
"fancy" and "choice".
Olive oil importers have effectively blocked passage of
more meaningful labeling. Working with certified IOOC
tasting panels, the California Olive Oil Council has
attempted to rectify this by issuing a seal to oils which
exceed IOOC Extra Virgin olive oil quality standards.
Look for the COOC seal to find oils which surpass global
standards.
California Appellations
USDA definitions
Definitions in blue below courtesy IOOC
http://www.internationaloliveoil.org/downloads/NORMAEN1.pdf
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Virgin olive oils |
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This oil is obtained only from the olive,
the fruit of the olive tree, using solely mechanical or
other physical means in conditions, particularly thermal
conditions, which do not alter the oil in any way. It has
not undergone any treatment other than washing, decanting,
centrifuging and filtering. It excludes oils obtained by
the use of solvents or re-esterification methods, and those
mixed with oils from other sources. It can be qualified as
a natural product, and virgin olive oil can have a
designation of origin when it meets the specific
characteristics associated with a particular region.
Virgin olive oils can have the following designations and
classifications depending on their organoleptic (taste and
aroma) and analytic characteristics (the degree of acidity
refers to the proportion of free fatty acids, not to the
taste)
Virgin olive oil which
has a free acidity, expressed as oleic acid, of not more than 0.8 grams per
100 grams (0.8%), and the other characteristics of
which correspond to those fixed for this category. Extra Virgin olive oil accounts for less than 10% of oil in many
producing countries. Used on salads, added at the table to soups and stews and
for dipping.
Virgin olive oil which has a free
acidity, expressed as oleic acid, of not more than 2 grams per
100 grams (2.0%) and the other characteristics of which
correspond to those fixed for this category in this standard.
| Ordinary
Virgin Olive Oil |
Virgin olive oil which has a free
acidity, expressed as oleic acid, of not more than 3.3 grams
per 100 grams and the other characteristics of which
correspond to those fixed for this category in this standard.
Ordinary oil may still be fine for frying or where flavor is
not wanted or needed.
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Lampante Virgin Olive oil |
Virgin olive oil not fit for consumption as it is,
designated lampante virgin olive oil, is virgin olive oil which has a free
acidity, expressed as oleic acid, of more than 3.3 grams per 100 grams and/or
the organoleptic characteristics and other characteristics of which correspond
to those fixed for this category in this standard. It is intended for refining
or for technical use.
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Refined Olive oil |
Refined olive oil is the olive oil obtained from
virgin olive oils by refining methods which do not lead to alterations in the
initial glyceridic structure. It has a free acidity, expressed as oleic acid, of
not more than 0.3 grams per 100 grams (0.3%) and its other characteristics
correspond to those fixed for this category in this standard. This is obtained by refining virgin olive oils which have a high acidity
level and/or organoleptic defects which are eliminated after refining. Over 50% of the oil produced in
the Mediterranean area is of such poor quality that it must be refined to
produce an edible product. Note that no solvents have been
used to extract the oil but it has been refined with the use of charcoal and
other chemical and physical filters. An obsolete equivalent is "pure olive oil"
Olive oil is the oil consisting of a
blend of refined olive oil and virgin olive oils fit for consumption as
they are. It has a free acidity, expressed as oleic acid, of not more
than 1 gram per 100 grams
(1.0%). The cheap
refined oil is mixed with a flavorful virgin oil
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| Olive
Pomace oil |
Pomace is the ground flesh
and pits after pressing.
Olive-pomace oil is the oil obtained by
treating olive pomace with solvents or other physical
treatments, to the exclusion of oils obtained by re-esterification
processes and of any mixture with oils of other kinds.
Olive-pomace oil is the oil comprising the blend of refined
olive-pomace oil and virgin olive oils fit for consumption as
they are. It has a free acidity of not more than 1 gram per
100 grams and its other characteristics correspond to those
fixed for this category in this standard.2/ In no case shall
this blend be called "olive oil".
It
is considered an inferior grade and is used for soap making or
industrial purposes
Crude olive-pomace oil is olive -pomace oil
whose characteristics correspond to those fixed for this category in
this standard. It is intended for refining for use for human
consumption, or it is intended for technical use.
Refined olive -pomace oil is the oil obtained
from crude olive -pomace oil by refining methods which do not lead to
alterations in the initial glyceridic structure. It has a free acidity,
expressed as oleic acid, of not more than 0.3 grams per 100 grams
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| Olive
Cake |
Olive cake is the solid phase that's
remained after pressing olives. Also called pomace or
sansa. |
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Obsolete or
unregulated terms |
"Cold pressed" is an
anachronistic and largely unregulated label description for olive oil. Fifty years ago
when most oil was made in vertical presses, the paste was pressed to make
olive oil (first press - see below) and then mixed with hot water or steam and
pressed again to remove more oil. This "second pressing" was not as
good; the heat had evaporated some of the delicate flavors.
Today the paste is
almost always warmed to room temperature during the
malaxation process before being
centrifuged using horizontal decanters (Olives are harvested in the winter
when it is cold). According to IOOC regulations this is still considered
"cold pressed". Heating the
paste excessively increases yield but degrades flavor. Producers would
lose money by attempting to extract a little more oil by overheating and
degrading the flavor of the oil to the point where it would not qualify as
more profitable extra
virgin.
Regulation 1019 of 2002 determines the use of the term "Cold
Pressed" in the EU. During Malaxation and Extraction the olive paste
must be kept under 27ºC (80ºF).
After the oil is pressed out of the paste, the dry pomace (pits and
flesh) is sometimes sold to refineries where steam and solvents are used to
remove any residual oil. This oil is called olive pomace oil.
First press is no
longer an official definition for olive oil. A century ago, oil was
pressed in screw or hydraulic presses. The paste was subjected to
increasingly high pressures with subsequent degradation in the flavor of the
oil. Today the vast majority of oil is made in continuous centrifugal
presses. There is no second pressing.
In the U.S.,
flavorless and often low quality (refined) oil is sold as "lite" or "light" oil
for a premium price. The "light" designation refers to flavor, not
caloric content, as all olive oil has the same amount of calories.
There is no official definition of lite or light
See Refined above
Most supermarket brands of olive oil are blended from oil from many
different varieties, regions, and even countries. Because olive oil
tastes differently year to year from the same grove due to weather, to create
an oil that tastes the same blenders must take oil from many sources and come
up with a recipe to create the same taste. Blending some oil high in polyphenols with one which does not will increase
its shelf life. Sometimes olive oil is blended with canola or other
vegetable oils. This should be stated on the label. Illegal blending of
cheaper hazelnut oil can be profitable for the unscrupulous and can be
difficult to detect.
Unfiltered oil contains small particles of olive flesh. Olive Oil aficionados
claim this adds additional flavor. Unfortunately it causes a sediment to form
at the bottom of the bottle which can become rancid, negatively impacting
flavor and shelf life. Unfiltered oil should be carefully stored and used
within 3-6 months of bottling.
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Early Harvest Olive Oil |
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Fall Harvest Olive Oil |
Olives reach their full size in the fall but may not fully ripen from green to
black until late winter. Green olives have slightly less oil, more bitterness
and can be higher in polyphenols. The oil tends to be more expensive because
it takes more olives to make a bottle of oil.
Many people like the peppery and bitter quality of early harvest oil.
Flavor notes of grass, green, green leaf, pungent, astringent are used
to describe early harvest fall oils.
Because of the higher polyphenols and antioxidants, early harvest oils
often have a longer shelf life and are blended with late harvest oils to
improve their shelf life.
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Late Harvest Olive Oil |
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Winter Harvest Olive
Oil |
The fruit is picked black and ripe. The fruit may have a little more oil
but it is risky because waiting longer into the winter increases the risk the
fruit will be damaged by frost.
Late harvest or "Winter" fruit is more ripe so like other ripe
fruit it has a light, mellow taste with little bitterness and more floral
flavors. Flavor notes of peach, melon, perfumy, apple, banana, buttery,
fruity, rotund, soave and sweet are often used.
Technically, olive oil which has had herbs or fruits infused in them cannot
be called olive oil. See the definition for olive oil above.
According to IOOC regulations it must be called "fruit juice". In
reality, few producers comply with this and you will see labels such as "lemon
infused olive oil" or "Basil Olive Oil". Because of their immense
popularity, the California Olive Oil Council is trying to come up with a
meaningful labeling standard for flavored oils.
This somehow implies that hand picking produces a better olive oil than fruit
harvested with a shaker, rakes or row type harvester. Mechanical
harvesting can bruise the fruit, increasing acidity, but mechanically
harvested fruit can also get to the press quicker, which lowers acidity.
Olives harvested with a hand-held pneumatic rake are usually considered "hand
picked".
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California State Definitions: |
California state Senate Bill SB920
in 1997 amended the state's Health and Safety code relating to food labeling.
It required that any olive oil produced, processed, sold, offered for sale,
given away, or possessed in this state adhere to the following:
Oil labeled "California Olive Oil" must be made solely from olives
grown in California
Sonoma Valley, Napa Valley, etc, Oil labeled with one of the approved American Viticultural Areas under
federal law (ex: Sonoma Valley), to be made of oil 75% of which is derived from
olives grown in that area.
Oil labeled "Estate Grown" must be made of oil 95% of which is derived
from that particular estate
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Other Definitions:
Vegan, Kosher, USDA Organic, Good Housekeeping Seal, etc. |
| See
Certification Page |
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