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New Format: California Olive Oil News is now updated daily as news becomes
available. Please look for new Articles, Briefs, and Olive Oil Questions.
Assembly Committee Approves Wiggins Bill
by Senator Pat Wiggins' web site - 6/18/2008
Sacramento – The Assembly Agriculture Committee voted 8-0 today to approve Senate Bill 634, legislation by Senator Patricia Wiggins (D – Santa Rosa) to update California’s definitions of olive oil grades to conform to international standards. SB 634 would also define “flavored olive oil” to reflect market practices, would delete obsolete provisions as requested by the state Department of Public Health, and would require that olive oil be labeled consistent with the updated food grade definitions.
In her testimony before the committee, Wiggins noted that “olive oil is a rapidly growing industry in California, with volume projected to increase by 1000 percent in the next five years.California also produces 99.9 percent of the domestically grown olive oil in the U.S.
“California law does not define olive oil grades, and as a result the grades commonly seen on olive oil bottles – such as extra virgin – don’t need to meet any standards,” Wiggins said. “SB 634 would establish new definitions that meet international standards, and require that bottles of olive oil be labeled accordingly. This will help consumers make informed choices based on consistent standards for quality.”
Almost all of the state’s olive oil producers voluntarily conform to standards adopted by the International Olive Council (IOC) in the production of “extra virgin” olive oil. The IOC, based in Madrid, is an intergovernmental organization of 40 nations formed in 1956.
“Extra virgin” is the highest olive oil grade identified by the IOC. The international standards require, among other things, that extra virgin olive oil be produced solely by mechanical means, without the heat or solvents used to make grain or seed oils such as corn and canola. The IOC standards ensure the quality of olive oil, but also make olive oil a more expensive product than other oils.
Flavored oils, such as lemon olive oil or jalapeno olive oil, are increasingly popular with consumers, but existing law does not address these products.
Wiggins said that the state definition of “olive oil,” in existence since 1947, does not include “extra virgin olive oil,” which is the grade of nearly all California-produced olive oils, nor does it include other common olive oil grades identified by the IOC or flavored oils that are increasingly popular with consumers.
Among the benefits offered by SB 634:
• Providing consumers with better information (state definitions of common olive oil grades would assist the consumer in evaluating quality and price);
• Facilitating the export of California olive oil (state olive oil standards that are consistent with international standards would reassure foreign importers and retailers of California olive oil);
• Helping to spur adoption of national standards (adoption of state standards will encourage the federal government to adopt national standards).
SB 634 is sponsored by the California Olive Oil Council, which represents over 80% of all the olive oil grown and produced in the United States.
Testifying on behalf of the bill today were California Olive Oil Council Board President Alan Greene, North American Olive Oil Association President Bob Bauer, and Family Winemakers of California President Paul Kronenberg. All three organizations are backing SB 634.
Greene told committee members: “Many of you will remember the California almond crop when it was second to Spanish production. During my nearly 18 years at Blue Diamond Growers, I was witness to the development of new almond technology, knowledge and marketing applied to the almond crop that has resulted in California almonds dominating world production. The same conditions exist for the developing olive oil industry today.
“A critical step to encourage the development of the California olive oil industry and to protect consumers is to establish the legal framework that will conform olive oil quality grades to international standards,” Greene added. “SB 634 will help California-produced olive oil achieve acceptability in the world’s markets and help consumers assess quality and price for olive oil regardless of where it is produced.”
Bauer stressed that the Wiggins bill “will protect consumers and businesses purchasing olive oil because it will help ensure they are purchasing what is listed on the label. Many consumers are turning to olive oil because of its many health benefits. It’s important to protect them by passing a law that will ensure they are getting what they’re paying for.”
Additional supporters include the California League of Food Processors, California Olive Ranch, Carriere Family Farms, Ojai Oil Company, Carriage Vineyard, Starcross Community, West Coast Producers, the Pasta Shop and Cullen Creek Olive Oil.
Wiggins represents California’s large 2nd Senate District, which stretches from Humboldt County to Solano County and also includes portions or all of Lake, Mendocino, Napa andSonoma Counties.
Betty Ann Pustarfi: A Colorful Life.
by Nancy Ash, Owner, Strictly Olive Oil - 6/3/2008
It is with great sadness that I acknowledge the passing of my friend Betty Pustarfi, the founder of Strictly
Olive Oil, on May 6th, 2008.
For many years I knew Betty through her work in the specialty foods industry. She founded Jones &
Bones (she was Bones) in Capitola, California with Jennifer Jones in 1984, which rose to prominence as
one of California’s best gourmet retailers. Her research into the store’s many offerings established Betty
as an expert on olive oil; after launching her own business Strictly Olive Oil she created olive oil tasting
bars in several retail venues and at festivals such as the annual TomatoFest in Carmel, California. Betty’s
expertise extended to balsamic vinegars and mustards as well; we laughed together at the thought of
changing the business name to Not So Strictly Olive Oil!
Betty and I became friends in 2006 when I expressed my interest in purchasing her business. I then
learned that food was actually Betty’s 3rd career. After high school graduation Betty enlisted in the Air
Force and rose to the rank of Staff Sergeant during the Korean War; I love the photo of her standing with
then General Eisenhower. She temporarily left the service to earn her Bachelors Degree in English from
Arizona State University, and then returned to military service by enlisting in the Army where she became
First Lieutenant.
After her honorable discharge in 1957 Betty rejoined civilian life and began a long career in corporate
communications. But as with so many of us in the food industry, her love of all-things-culinary lured her
into the gourmet world, where she became one of the industry’s most passionate voices on the quality
and authenticity of food.
Highlights of Betty’s culinary career included participating in the early days of the California Olive Oil
Council (COOC) as well as working with the International Olive Oil Council (IOOC). She traveled to
Tunisia, Turkey and Australia to both learn and teach about olive oil. She conducted tasting seminars
throughout the U.S.; she was a popular presenter at several NASFT Fancy Food Show Educational
Seminars.
In fact one of my favorite Betty anecdotes (there are so many from which to choose!) was from a Fancy
Food Show. I was in a booth offering samples of balsamic vinegar when an attendee began asking
several questions. We spoke about the Italian classifications of Traditionale and Condimento which
unfortunately are not used nor understood in the U.S. This person then informed me that she had just
listened to Betty’s presentation on balsamics, had been a retailer for years and yet had never heard these
terms and was actually confirming this "new" information. At the time, Betty and I may have been working
on different sides of the booth, but we were working towards the same goals.
When I heard that Betty was planning to retire, I immediately knew that I was destined to purchase Strictly
Olive Oil and continue her work. During our "negotiations" (I use the term loosely since it involved
indulgent lunches which were quite fun) I confessed that I had always coveted the name "Strictly Olive
Oil" as it succinctly defined my career choices as well as hers. Betty was proud to be a gifted wordsmith
and had planned to return to writing poems and "Poor Betty’s Hubris (Almanac)" in her retirement.
Jennifer (Jones) recently described Betty as "living large without apologies". I always found Betty’s
insights educational, her humor infectious, her passion inspirational, and her feistiness a not-so-gentle
push in the right direction. I will miss her dearly.
In addition to her life partner Jennifer, Betty is survived by her sister, brother-in-law, niece and nephews.
(Go to http://www.legacy.com/MercuryNews/DeathNotices.asp?Page=LifeStory&PersonID=110096459 to
read Betty’s obituary and leave a note in the guest book.) Contributions in Betty's memory can be made
to Dominican Hospital/Dominican Home Health Care, 1555 Soquel Dr., Santa Cruz, CA 95065.
State of the Crop
by Caroline J. Beck - 5/20/2008
Part I: Early Indications
As olive trees across California came into bloom the first week of May, a few variables pointed to mixed
projections about the total volume the industry can expect for the fall harvest of 2008. Up and down the coast,
most small and mid-sized oil producers reported heavy bloom and were optimistic that this year may produce
a bumper crop. Even California Olive Oil Council Executive Director, Patty Darragh said there is every
indication that California extra virgin olive oil production will surpass 750,000 gallons this year. In doing so,
California will jump ahead of France’s expected production levels on the worldwide scale for the first time.
Heavy bloom can usually be a strong indication of a bumper crop, but not always. Dewey Lucero, owner of
Lucero Olive Oil who manages over 500 acres of olives including orchards in Tehama and Butte counties and
as far south as Sacramento, was reservedly optimistic. ”To be honest, it’s hard to tell this early in the year.
Sometimes, a great bud start doesn’t result in heavy fruit and sometimes we’ll have a year with fewer buds, but
everything turns to fruit,” said Lucero. “My grandpa who has been farming olives for over 60 years has always
said, ‘We just won’t know (what the harvest will bring) until July’,” he added.
Paul Vossen, of UC Davis, reported that the freeze this year in the northern counties was very minor and will
not appear to have any affect on volume. Vossen also shared the point-of-view that it will be difficult to judge
total crop potential until mid-June.
He echoed comments received from Adin Hester of the Olive Growers Council of California, who remarked, “The
answer in a nutshell is there are still too many variables. Factors like poor pollination; or excessive heat could
result in a June drop.” For many of the largest producers, the pattern of smaller crops in alternate years point
to a light crop for the ’08-’09 harvest year. Hester said, “All told, we anticipate the crop to be down a little bit, or
75-85% of total tonnage from the heavy production of the ’07-’08 season.”
Of all the growers we spoke with, Shari De Young, orchard manager for McEvoy Ranch in Sonoma County,
near Petaluma, reported the latest start to the season. “We’re only just beginning to get bloom, which is
slightly later than some previous years. Although we are in a more coastal region than many olive growers, this
was a particularly cold year for us. The full bloom is probably two weeks off and will finish by the end of May, if
it stays hot,” she said.
Edie Kausch of Ink Grade Farm, a smaller Northern California producer who recently won a Double Gold
medal at the Las Vegas International Restaurant Show for Ink Grade’s Italian Blend reported similar
expectations. “We are in Pope Valley – just in the eastern hills of the Napa Valley, almost 1600 feet up.”
Kausch went on to explain “Because we are at a higher elevation, we get our bud break three weeks later than
the valley floor. We are very fortunate that we are just now getting bloom. The early frost didn’t hit us at all.”
At the other end of the geographic spectrum in Southern California, Tom Curry of the Temecula Olive Oil
company reported that early weather conditions favored a strong year. “We have had some good rain here,
down only %5 from normal levels,” Curry said. “Right now, there appears to be lots of flowers. We are in an
area that is also blessed with no freeze, so that’s never been an issue for us. All in all, it looks like we should
have a pretty strong year.”
Moving to the Central region – represented by highly varied microclimatic zones – the reports are much the
same. Whether coastal or inland, Central Coast growers report strong flowering and bud break, albeit slightly
behind the typical growing season calendar. “Our trees have lots of flowers, although no trace of fruit yet.
Some trees in the little valley in our orchard were clearly affected by the frost, but others are loaded. It looks
like we are a little behind, time-wise, compared to previous years,” reported Antoinette Addison of Figueroa
Farms in the Santa Ynez valley.
Peter Bell, a grower in the same region has witnessed a similar strong start to the growing season, but has
concerns about the potential effect of high winds, especially at this time of year. Feedback from Robbie
Robbins of the Robbins Family Farm summed up the sentiment shared by most growers we interviewed. While
surveying the orchard, he said, “The crop looks like it could be huge. Although we also have wind here, it could
be our biggest year ever. In another month or so, we should know what will hold. It’s incredible. I’ve never seen
as many flowers as we have right now.”
Part II of this report will be issued later in the season when the variables described by the growers are
narrowed. At this time, however, all reports indicate a very strong year for California olive oil.
Caroline J. Beck is a food and wine writer and a columnist for the Santa Ynez Valley Journal. She
divides her time between California and the shores of Lake Huron in Michigan. She began her career in
strategic marketing for companies such as Apple Computer and Microsoft and went on to head up
entrepreneurial adventures in the entertainment business for Sony. Her most recent past life included an olive
ranch and a thriving business in olive oil and specialty foods. She can be reached at
carolinejbeck@hotmail.com.
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The Olive Oil Source Announces New Ownership
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by The Olive Oil Source - 4/7/2008
Greenbrae, California (April 6, 2008) -- Lisa and John Deane announced today that they have sold their Olive Oil Source business to Shawn and Antoinette Addison. The Olive Oil Source has been the primary supplier of equipment and support products for the rapidly growing California Olive Oil industry. The business will continue to operate under the name The Olive Oil Source.
The Deanes decided to sell The Olive Oil Source for family commitment reasons. It was a difficult decision as they have enjoyed knowing and working with everyone in this new and exciting industry. They expressed their thanks to their customers and suppliers in the California olive oil industry for the privilege of working with them over the past ten years. “We know that the company is in good hands with Shawn and Antoinette who have the experience and knowledge necessary to continue serving the industry into the future. We wish the Addisons and the entire California olive oil industry great success and growth,” Lisa said.
Shawn and Antoinette Addison first became involved in the olive oil industry when they inherited an olive orchard in the South of France from Antoinette’s father. In 2002, they created Figueroa Farms in the Santa Ynez Valley and immediately made their presence known in the industry. They planted thousands of trees on their property, which they farm organically, and managed some neighboring farms as well. In 2003, they purchased a state-of-the-art Pieralisi olive mill through The Olive Oil Source. Since then, they have milled many domestic and international award winning olive oils both for Figueroa Farms and for other producers. Figueroa Farms has become one of the most successful gourmet oil producers in California and their line of oils can be found in most gourmet grocery store chains and independent grocery stores. They have developed an outstanding reputation for the quality of their products and customer service. Figueroa Farms is a supporting member of the California Olive Oil Council (COOC) for which Shawn was a member of the Board of Directors from 2005 to 2007.
Shawn and Antoinette saw the acquisition of The Olive Oil Source as a unique opportunity  to further their goal of playing a major role in developing the California olive oil industry. As a result of owning and managing Figueroa Farms, they have gained valuable experience at every step of the olive oil making process from farming to marketing. The purchase of The Olive Oil Source seemed like the perfect thing for them to do. “The Olive Oil Source clients will be able to benefit from our experience as olive growers and millers and we will be able to better serve our existing Figueroa Farms customers thanks to the wealth of resources afforded by The Olive Oil Source,” said Shawn. Antoinette added that “The Olive Oil Source has been the major resource for the olive oil industry in the United States, both as a supplier and a clearing house for information. We have always admired what Lisa and John have accomplished and we are now honored and excited to take over. We really look forward to continuing to grow and improve this dynamic business.”
For more information about The Olive Oil Source, please visit www.OliveOilSource.com, or Call (805) 688-1014, or Fax (805) 686-2887 Santa Ynez, CA, or e-mail Shawn@OliveOilSource.com.
Acreage certified for Organic Rises
by CCOF - 3/31/2008
Santa Cruz, CA - CCOF, one of North America’s oldest and largest organic certifiers, this month surpassed a half million organic acres in its certification program. This is a major milestone for the organization that was started in 1973 by a small group of organic farmers.
CCOF experienced a 129% growth in certified organic acreage over the last two years, along with a phenomenal 141,317 acre increase in 2007, representing a 40.7% single-year acreage growth. CCOF’s 501,066 organic acres is split roughly evenly between livestock and produce operations. Certified pasture and field acreage has risen from just 38,611 in 2004 to 241,511, reflecting the growth in the organic dairy and livestock sector. CCOF now has 62 certified members producing milk. The main areas of growth in crops have been oats, rice, wine and table grapes, wheat, and alfalfa. Certified organic oat acreage increased by 51.6% in 2007, rice acreage by 49.3%, and table grape acreage by 39.3%.
Another interesting trend is the number of small to medium sized growers who are expanding their operations to include post-harvest activities, such as organic processing, handling or packaging, as means of adding value to their produce. “Much of our current growth is attributed to existing members adding acreage, facilities and products”, states Peggy Miars, CCOF Executive Director. “We’re excited that many CCOF members are experiencing growth and progress, and we support their continued success.”
In 2007, CCOF completed more than 2,300 on-site inspections of land and facilities to ensure their compliance with the standards of the National Organic Program. “That means we are overseeing on average 10 inspections per work day”, says Jake Lewin, Certification Services Director. “It’s evidence of the dedication and commitment of our staff to serve and support the efforts of our clients out there in the fields, growing the organic market.”
Students win Award for Olive Waste Treatment
by The Olive Oil Source - 2/10/2008
University of Utah students in partnership with students at Birzeit University in the Palestinian territories have won the Mondialogo Engineering Award for a method of extracting toxic phenols from olive processing waste. By removing the phenols the wastewater can be safely disposed and the chemicals can be sold to the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries.
According to the Mondialogo organization literature, the Award "invites engineering students in developing and developed countries to form international teams to create project proposals that address the United Nations Millennium Development Goals – proposals to improve the quality of life in the developing world, particularly poverty eradication and the promotion of sustainable development."
Mondialogo was launched by UNESCO and Daimler and "seeks to promote intercultural dialogue, understanding and exchange among young people." 809 student groups from 89 countries registered for the 2007 award. The contestant teams were asked to engage in international intercultural cooperation and dialogue from December 2006 to May 2007, to propose practical, high-quality engineering projects for the benefit of communities in developing countries. Ten Mondialogo Engineering Awards, twenty Honorable Mentions and one Continuation Award went to the 31 finalist project teams which represented several different areas of engineering.
Effect of wastewater after drying on land - courtesy Mondialogo
Olive mill pollution is a problem throughout the olive producing parts of the world. The olive paste and waste processing water left after olive oil extraction are full of polyphenols. Polyphenols are a broad class of healthful antioxidants including Flavenoids and catechins which help repair cell damage and are found in high levels in olive oil, red wine, chocolate, tea and many other foods. These substances are water soluble so are mostly found in the waste water after olive processing. The levels are so high that they represent one of the biggest problems in disposing of olive waste. The phenols have anti-fungal and anti-bacterial activities so can disturb normal wetland or treatment pond ecology. The olive water can contaminate surface waterways and groundwater. In the Ramallah District of the West Bank alone there are approximately 65 olive mills. During the peak olive oil production season the effluent flow can be substantial.
The Utah and Palestine team came up with methods of removing these toxic compounds so that the waste can be used for biogas production and the water treated for reuse by the mills. Once extracted in a usable form, the compounds can also be sold to the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries.
In California the olive waste is treated a variety of different ways depending on whether a 2 or 3 phase decanter centrifuge is used. Most of the more modern decanters are 2 phase. The older 3 phase type is used in Palestine. 2 phase decanter centrifuges produce a watery husk. The watery husk is considered less of a disposal problem than the olive water produced in a 3 phase decanter. It can be spread back on the field, trucked to landfill or is occasionally dried onsite in commercially available dryers. The dryer may cost more than the decanter and consume high quantities of energy in the form of electricity, fossil fuels or by burning the subsequently dried husk. In all cases, greenhouse gasses and fumes are produced. California's biggest olive mill is at California Olive Ranch in Oroville, CA. They have a pomace dryer and burn the pomace to generate heat which is then used in the olive oil extraction process.
For more information on olive waste disposal see our olive waste page
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Briefs:
The USDA is now soliciting comments
6/3/2008
The COOC is pleased to announce that the USDA is now soliciting comments for
the petition that the COOC filed in August, 2004 for revisions to the USDA
standards for grades of olive oil. The PROPOSED UNITED STATES STANDARDS FOR
GRADES OF OLIVE OIL AND OLIVE-POMACE OIL is now posted for comment at the
USDA website at the Federal Register. The period for comment ends August 1,
2008. The COOC supports this proposal and encourages members to make comment.
The proposal reflects current industry standards commonly accepted in the
United States and abroad. This proposal will make the United States standards
consistent with the IOC.
The USDA Agricultural Marketing Service published an initial notice in the
November 8, 2004 Federal Register providing a comment period to determine
the level of interest in this revision. Thirty comments were received and
they are available to view at
http://www.ams.usda.gov/processedinspection
Link to Docket
Link to Press Release UC Davis Introduces Olive Oil Line
3/31/2008
Olives from 1,500 trees on the UC Davis campus have produced over 800 gallons of olive oil this winter. The sale of the oil in the campus bookstore is contributing to the UC Davis Olive Center, founded in January to promote research on olives and olive oil. The oil comes in several varieties and is paired with a cabernet sauvignon vinegar.
NAOOA Seal Licensing Agreement
3/24/2008
The North American Olive Oil Association (NAOOA)launched a quality control program that will allow members to put the organization’s seal on their product labels, websites and business communications. NAOOA members are primarily importers of olive oil into the US. Quality control will be maintained by random checks of member's oil by labs certified by the International Olive Oil Council.
New California Mid-State Fair Olive Oil Contest
2/25/2008
California Mid-State Fair (San Luis Obispo county, Paso Robles July 25 - Aug 3) will be accepting oils from Monterey, San Luis Obispo & Santa Barbara counties, the oils will be judged by the COOC, the awards will be: Gold, Silver and Bronze and entries will be displayed during the fair.
Olive Growers Council wants Flavor Standards
2/25/2008
It believes California-grown olives taste better, so the Olive Growers Council wants stricter federal enforcement of flavor grading for ripe olives. A law adopted in 1937 lists olives among crops that should be graded for flavor, to develop dependable markets. The growers’ council says flavor standards would give consumers information they need. California farmers also want the standards to apply to imported olives, which they say tend to be of lower quality. courtesy Food and Farm News
UC Davis Professor George York Dies
2/25/2008
During his career, Professor York investigated outbreaks of the deadly food toxin botulism in California, helped pioneering Sonoma wineries handle problems with contaminated wastewater, and taught many Californians how to cure olives and can tomatoes safely. One of his many admonitions, "don't put raw garlic in olive oil".
Olive Psyllid and Olive Leaf Scorch
2/19/2008
Two threats to olive trees … a new pest and a damaging disease … have been found in Southern California. The insect, called the olive psyllid, has turned up in San Diego and Orange counties. It drinks the sap of olive trees and causes other damage. The disease, olive leaf scorch, causes sections of trees to die out. Farmers and crop specialists hope the pest and disease can be kept away from the center of commercial olive production in the Central Valley.
New flavors for 2008
2/4/2008
Food Processing News quotes Scott Mortensen of International Flavors & Fragrances Global who predicts herbs, spices and botanicals will expand beyond tea, mint, cinnamon, ginger and honey to rooibos, lemongrass, clove, parsley mint, jasmine, saffron and exotic flavors such as roasted Jamaican pineapple, tamarind, mojito, plantain, wasabi, and more
Farmers Plant Machine harvestable Trees
1/27/2008
Demand from consumers for nuts brings demand from farmers for nut trees. Tree nuts have been commanding high prices, and may offer farmers another advantage. Nut trees can be harvested with machines and, with farmers having continued trouble hiring enough harvest help, they’re increasingly opting for crops that require fewer workers.
Windstorm Tree Losses
1/27/2008
Difficult decisions lie ahead for farmers who lost trees during January windstorms. If a part of an orchard was blown down, it may not produce enough of a crop to stay profitable. If the orchard contained older trees, the farmer might remove the entire block and start over. But plant nurseries have already sold all their young, replacement trees for this season. Farm advisors say farmers with wind losses may remove entire blocks of trees and order replacements for next fall.
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Olive Oil Questions:
7/6/2008 - A reader: Can my 3 week old grandaughter use olive oil on dry skin and face? Dr. Deane: While Olive oil has been used on dry skin for millennia and allergy to olive oil is extremely rare, the face is very sensitive skin. You may want to consult your pediatrician to make sure you are really treating just dry skin and not some other problem.
2/8/2008 - Mary Asks: Just wondering if the olive oil my mother used in the 30s and 40s was the original "virgin" olive oil -- when did the use of machinery/processess begin which made the oil "non-virgin"????Olive Oil News responds: Your premise has a romantic nostalgia but is faulty. Most of the olive oil made throughout history would nowadays be considered non-virgin. Olive oil was a valuable source of calories and not a fancy condiment. People didn't really care much how it tasted. The olives were often collected off the ground after they had partially fermented. There were no insecticides so olive grubs were the norm. The olives were heaped in piles on the dirt where they continued to decay. They were then ground in a circular trough with a hard to clean stone wheel at ground level in close proximity with a hard-working donkey going in circles. Before it could be pressed the paste was spread on mats made from grass or reeds which could not really be cleaned from day to day or even season to season. Boiling water was often poured on the paste to get more oil out. The resulting unfiltered oil from the lever or screw press was kept in pottery storage jars with loose fitting lids in a hot climate. In the few places where oil is still made "the old fashioned way" it tastes pretty disgusting. Read Olives: The Life and Lore of a Noble Fruitby Mort Rosenblum for some great stories about tasting olive oil in Northern Africa. In Imperia, Italy there is a great museum devoted to olives and olive oil, called Museo dell' Olivo. which show the old but unsanitary ways olive oil was made.
Starting about 100 years ago with the introduction of hydraulic presses and then centrifugal extraction units and clarifiers the oil started improving. Steel containers kept out air during storage and glass and tin containers kept the oil from oxidizing during transport to the consumer. Virgin olive oil was more a reality. Bad tasting Olive oil made the old fashioned way from less developed countries was collected, sent to processing facilities in Europe and treated with steam and solvents to make refined olive oil. It wasn't virgin but it was at least palatable.
Today the olives often go straight from the tree to the processing plant in the same day. The oil is made in scrupulously cleaned stainless steel machines with careful control of temperature and oxidation. Stringent laws regulate every kind of food processing plant. It is no accident that today far more olives are turned into virgin olive oil than at any time in the past as virgin and extra virgin olive oil commands a much higher price and profit.
12/14/2007 - milan: Why do olives need to be cured especially in the awful salt. Can they be preserved in another way?Olive Oil News responds: Curing removes bitter components that otherwise make an olive inedible. Curing can be done with water, lye or salt.
But once the olive is cured it must be preserved or it can develop dangerous bacteria such as botulism.
Drying, salting and vinegar are the basic ways foods have been preserved from spoiling for thousands of years. Freezing and irradiation are two newer but less used ways food can be preserved.
12/3/2007 - N : For many years now I have used olive oil. I bake with it and fry with it. I use it to fry my donuts. I use it in my deep fryer. But someone told my husband that using it in your deep fryer is poisonous, which I had a hard time believing but it kept bugging me so I finally took the time to look it up so I could be convinced I was right. Thank Goodness. By the way many people commented on the good taste of the fries. When the oil gets dirty I just throw it away and add new. ( I buy Kirkland Signature at Costco) Do you know if it is processed properly and those kinds of things?Olive Oil News responds: I'm glad you did not fall for the urban myth about frying with olive oil, it flies in the face of common sense considering that olive oil has been used for frying for thousands of years, long before there were such things as canola and corn oil.
As to the question about the Costco oil, label laws in the US do not conform to international standards so it is hard to know if an olive oil labeled as extra virgin is actually high quality. One plus is that large chains like Costco which private label their oil have more to lose if the product is found to be defective than if another brand they sell is involved in a scandal. I have seen the Kirkland olive oil brand used informally in several olive oil tastings here in California and it was found to have good taste for the price.
The small amount of olive oil made in the US and marked with the COOC seal has been extensively tested and is genuinely high quality.
11/5/2007 - Desiree: Your reader Gary said he could not find a certain olive oil taste he had found in Portugal. I am also a huge fan of Portuguese olive oil. During my travels there, I was told that the Portuguese let the olives sit for 10 days before pressing, which gives the oil its unique pungency and flavor. Is this true?Olive Oil News responds: Each country has their own unique varieties of olive which contribute to regional olive oil flavors. Portugal has the Cobrancosa and Verdeal for example (see varieties) But letting olives sit after harvest will cause the fruit to heat up, spoil and ferment. The resultant oil will have high acidity and taste defects such as "fusty, musty, moldy, rancid". The oil would not qualify as extra virgin under current International Olive Council testing.
In most of the world in the past 2000 years processing capacity did not keep up with the harvest so olives sat and fermented. The traditional lever or screw olive press with reed mats was difficult to keep clean and encouraged oxidation and off tastes. Clay storage containers of the day were poorly sealed and oil quickly went rancid if it was not already. Oil was not an expensive condiment but a necessary source of calories so consumers were resigned to the taste and came to expect and prefer this traditional taste of the oil. In some parts of the world they still do. Mort Rosenblum in his book Olives, The Life and Lore of a Noble Fruit has a great story about traveling to a tiny town in North Africa where with great reverence he was offered a bottle of very musty rancid oil which the locals treasured.
In the past 50 years there has been a big improvement in olive oil processing, storage and distribution.
If a producer can process the olives quickly in enclosed centrifugal centrifuges, store the oil in modern containers such as stainless steel, and prevent exposure to light and heat during distribution, the oil will be of higher quality and the price much higher. No modern producer would deliberately let their olives sit for 10 days if there was any way to prevent it.
I am hoping that the flavor your prefer is that of the unique Portuguese varietals. The Portuguese do not have a powerful marketing lobby so sell most of their oil to consolidators in Italy or Spain where it is blended with other oil. If it is the musty olive taste you are after, that is fine, as they say, "it is a matter of taste" and some people will prefer a flavor that others label a defect. Of course there is not a big export market for defective oil so you are not likely to see it in mainstream markets.
11/5/2007 - Rira: In olive oil,when Oleic acid in triglycerid place in mid position,its benefits on health(Cardiovascular Disease,etc)is more than when Oleic acid place in the two other sides?Dr. Deane responds: The fats (triglycerides) in food are made up of a glycerol with three fatty acids attached. There are many different types of fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, etc. They are like three flags flying on the glycerol flagpole. You seem to be alluding to the fact that different flags can fly in different order from up to down on the pole. But this should make no difference because in your intestine lipase enzymes and bile acids break down the glycerol and fatty acids, destroying the order. The glycerol and fatty acids pass into the intestinal lining cells separately. These cells then reform the triglyceride stringing the fatty acid "flags" on the glycerol "flagpole" in on order to their liking.
11/5/2007 - CN: I am seeking a natural remedy for a skin disorder which plagues my body. I have what the doctor biopsied and called eczema. So…eczema is my infliction and it is ugly. The subscribed medication is a gel base with a cortisone additive. I feel like I am always greasy and worry about the impact of so much cortisone. Dr Deane responds: Moisturizers can be an important part of treating eczema. Many types of natural oils have been used successfully for eczema, such as coal tar, and vegetable oils like olive oil. It wouldn't hurt to try olive oil. Steroid anti-inflammatory creams work best for most people. Don't confuse the minimal long term effects of steroids used on the skin compared to the major side effects of steroids taken by mouth. Unless you are using the steroid cream over extensive areas of the body, you are absorbing little of it. For more, see
The American Academy of Dermatologists - Moisturizing for eczema
The American Academy of Dermatologists - Diet for eczema
10/22/2007 - Dolores: How long should be the life of a bottle of Extra virgin olive oil? How long should you keep it? I bought a large bottle at Sam's club a couple of years ago, and still have a little left, but afraid it might be too old....Does it turn rancid or lose it's flavor after a certain length of time? I just threw out a smaller bottle that had a date on it...best if used before Feb of 07....Should all bottles of oil have a expiration date on them....I am afraid to buy a large bottle again...please advise.Olive Oil News responds: Shelf life is very variable, depending on the olive variety, ripeness when pressed, care in processing, filtering, etc. It also depends on storage after it has left the producer, something they have no control of, so it is hard to "guarantee" a certain lifespan. Look on the label for a date. Remember that most olives are picked in the late fall or winter and are sold the next year, so 2006 oil will be the freshest available until early 2008 when 2007 oil will come on the market.
Lifespan can be as little as 3 months for an unfiltered late harvest olive bottled in clear glass and sold off a supermarket shelf above hot deli foods which is then stored by the consumer in bright light on a hot stovetop with the cap unscrewed. It can be as much as 3-4 years for an early harvest, high polyphenol containing olive variety which has been filtered then packaged in a well sealed tin or dark bottle then stored in a cool dark place by the grocer and consumer.
Best to buy small quantities, use up the oil within 6 months.
Any vegetable oil will go rancid with time. The oil is still edible but will taste bad.
Click for a more lengthy discussion about olive oil storage
10/18/2007 - A Reader: I have heard that eating Olive Oil will interfere with absorption of vitamins and mineralsDr. Deane: Fat soluble vitamins A,D, E and K are found in fatty foods. Some seed and fish oils are particularly high in vitamins. (See Nutrition for information about vitamins in olive oil.) If olive oil were to "soak up" fat soluble vitamins in the stomach from a pill or other foods, the vitamins would still end up in the body; the oil is absorbed into the gut to the blood stream and from there to all of the cells.
This misconception may have come from the use of Mineral oil as a laxative. Mineral oil cannot be absorbed by the body so goes completely through the GI tract, keeping the stool soft on the way out. If you were to take a fish oil capsule with your mineral oil, the fat soluble vitamins would be absorbed and trapped by the mineral oil and excreted.
10/18/2007 - Sky Radio 100.4 FM Athens, Greece: Are California producers importing seedlings from Greece?Olive Oil News responds: Import law regarding live plants can be very restrictive. Generally the seedlings must have washed roots with no soil which could harbor pests. That means they must travel by air due to their fragility. Once planted, state law may require that they stay in quarantine for months to years. It is easier to buy Greek varieties from a nursery in California which has gone through this process and has then propagated the cuttings here. See Tree sources for nurseries selling Greek varieties. Try searching on Kalamata.
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