Part II: Mid-season Estimates

As the 2008 growing season moves past “fruit set” stage, a mid-year review with California olive growers and industry experts reveals unusual weather events will only marginally impact total production this year. The late April cold snap, an unseasonably early heat wave in May and strong winds in many areas were consistent topics of conversation among growers. And while devastating fires of North Central California dominated the news media for many weeks, their effect on the State’s olive crop was contained to a relatively narrow area.

On the heels of these conditions, earlier reports of a bumper crop are now tempered. Current industry projections point to a healthy year, but not an extraordinary one. California Olive Oil Council Executive Director, Patty Darragh maintained their projection of 750,000 gallons, while acknowledging it is probably not going to be a banner year. “From what I’ve heard, things are still on target for our projections, but there is a concern about Butte County because of the fires,” said Darragh. “Statewide, the number of young trees just coming into maturity and their heavier bearing years should balance things out.”

A conversation with Alan Greene, Vice President Business Development for California Olive Ranch, mirrored Darragh’s assessment. As the largest grower in California dedicated to the production of olive oil, the 700-acre ranch of over 300,000 trees is farmed in a “super high density” pattern. Greene acknowledged that weather events were a factor this year, but not significantly. “The April freeze and hot winds during bloom took their toll, more so for the later-blooming Arbequina than Arbosana or Koroneiki, but I think we will come in better than 80% of potential,” reported Greene. “Our volume pretty much doubles ever year as a factor of new plantings and existing orchards maturing into production. From what we’ve heard, traditional olive varieties got tagged more so than Super High Density. The effects of the weather seem to be variety-specific,” explained Greene.

Adin Hester, President of the California Olive Growers Council, reports that his organization is estimating a production volume of some 65,000 tons for table olives. The same three weather-related issues were cause for a reduction in crop size. “In the spring, a late frost caused some damage to the buds. In late April at the time of full bloom, four days of hot weather with temperatures rising to over 100 degrees undoubtedly caused the heaviest damage,” Hester reported. “Growers who had a strong, healthy spring bloom and were looking forward to a good crop, suddenly went from good to marginal. There is no question that the heat heavily damaged and reduced the potential ’08 crop, as high temperatures cooked the pollen,” he said.

In the areas hardest hit by the June fires, two growers we spoke to really felt the heat. Lewis Johnson, of Butte View Olive Oil Company, reported some loss of trees to fire and damage to fruit set, but concluded things could have been worse. “It’s hard to tell if the heavy smoke has had an effect or not. We had almost a full month of no sunlight. While we only lost about 40 trees in one block, neighboring orchards were hit pretty hard,” said Johnson. Additionally, Johnson had his share of the effects of other weather conditions. “Some blocks were damaged with cold weather and hot North winds really hammered the rest of it, but this is a light-bearing year”, Johnson reported. In the adjacent Yuba County, Steve Dambeck of Apollo Olive Oil reported little evidence that the fires had any direct impact on the upcoming production. “Bloom was extremely profuse this year. While it’s still a little hard to tell, the set looks to be medium. There was a huge amount of smoke. It’s hard to judge the effect when this kind of unusual event occurs,” said Dambeck.

Charles Crohare of Olivina in Livermore reported that his good fortune this year has been tied to the location of his 70-acre orchard. “Luckily, we were free of both the frost and the fire. We are not at the base of the valley, up at an elevation not affected as much by the temperature swings,” said Crohare. “We are optimistically projecting a 10% reduction from last year, but this is our light bearing year, so it is to be expected,” he said.

Yvonne Hall of Terra Savia in Mendocino county points to early frost as a bigger fear in their operations. Their nursery in Hopland was hard hit by the cold snap. Because they also offer oil milling services, Terra Savia is getting ad hoc reports from their own customers that it may be a lighter year. “This year’s huge blooms can be deceiving. Until you get the stuff in the bins, you can’t really judge. We service growers in the Anderson valley that worry every year about frost before harvest, not usually frost before fruit set,” said Hall.

Further down the coast, Joshua Yaguda of Pasolivo in Paso Robles, reported the most optimistic outlook. “For whatever reason, we seem to be on an alternate cycle from most folks we’ve talked to. This year, we expect a real bumper crop and although we experienced serious winds during late bloom, we already had fruit set that has held on,” said Yaguda.

“Partly because of very heavy pruning last year, the trees have a lot of energy and seem to be excited to be back in business,” Yaguda reported. He also remarked on a new bee keeping program at the farm that may be a factor. “Last year, we invited a local bee keeping company to set up in the orchard. The increased pollination activity may be one of the reasons we’re seeing such a heavy fruit set. It’s hard to quantify because we are coming back from heavy trimming, but we’re optimistic that it played a positive role,” explained Yaguda.

A smaller producer in the same Paso Robles area, Hank Anderson, of Valhalla Olive Orchard, shared Yaguda’s optimistic outlook. He expects their Arbequina variety to bear very heavy this year, but reported that the hotter temperatures in early spring required diligent watering to move from heavy bloom to solid fruit set.

In the Santa Ynez valley, Gus Sousoures of Olive Hill Farm produces olive oil made exclusively with Lucca olives. Sousoures reported that while he agrees with the impact of weather-related factors, his choice to plant the Lucca varietal has as much to do with the consistent volume he experiences as anything. “Although we had similar conditions: early frost, short hot spell in late bloom, Lucca tends to be a more consistent producer. It doesn’t bear heavy and light. And while this year’s fruit set is less than we expected because of the heavy bloom, all in all, it looks good,” said Sousoures.

The mid-year report provides further evidence that making projections in this business is never a sure thing. But Lewis Johnson of Butte View Olive Oil Company probably said it best. “You get what Mother Nature gives you. And go from there, said Johnson.

Wiggins Bill Updating Definitions of Olive Oil

by David W. Miller, Press Secretary - 8/5/2008

Sacramento – The State Senate voted 35-0 today to approve Senate Bill 634, legislation by Senator Patricia Wiggins (D – Santa Rosa) to update California’s definitions of olive oil grades to conform to international standards.

SB 634 also defines “flavored olive oil” to reflect market practices and would require that olive oil be labeled consistent with the updated food grade definitions. The Assembly previously approved SB 634 on July 15, meaning the bill next heads to the desk of Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger for his consideration.

According to Wiggins, who said she hoped that Schwarzenegger would sign her legislation soon, “olive oil is a rapidly growing industry in California, with volume projected to increase by 1000 percent in the next five years. California also produces 99.9% of the olive oil grown in the U.S.

“But state law does not define olive oil grades, and as a result the grades commonly seen on olive oil bottles – such as extra virgin – don’t need to meet any standards,” Wiggins said. “SB 634 establishes new definitions that meet international standards, and requires that bottles of olive oil be labeled accordingly. This will help consumers make informed choices based on consistent standards for quality.”

Almost all of the state’s olive oil producers voluntarily conform to standards adopted by the International Olive Council (IOC) in the production of “extra virgin” olive oil. The IOC, based in Madrid, is an intergovernmental organization of 40 nations formed in 1956.

“Extra virgin” is the highest olive oil grade identified by the IOC. International standards require, among other things, that extra virgin olive oil be produced solely by mechanical means, without the heat or solvents used to make grain or seed oils such as corn and canola. The IOC standards ensure the quality of olive oil, but also make it a more expensive product than other oils.

Flavored oils, such as lemon olive oil or jalapeno olive oil, are increasingly popular with consumers, but existing law does not address these products.

Wiggins said the current state definition of “olive oil,” in existence since 1947, does not include “extra virgin olive oil,” which is the grade of nearly all California-produced olive oils. Nor does it include other common olive oil grades identified by the IOC or flavored oils that are increasingly popular with consumers.

Unlike wine, virgin olive oil does not need to be aged to create complexity. The faster the fruit is crushed, the fresher the product will be, due to the esterification reaction that occurs over time between free alcohols and free fatty acids. According to the California Olive Oil Council (COOC), the state’s olive oil producers are able to bring their fresh product to market sooner than international counterparts. Most imported oils arrive months, if not years, after they are pressed.

The COOC, which represents over 80% of all the olive oil grown and produced in the U.S., is the only certified quality-control program in North America whose standards exceed those of the IOC. The COOC extra virgin certification seal, for example, is only granted if strict parameters are met.

The purpose of the COOC certification program is to provide producers and marketers with a standardized method of grading 100% California olive oil as extra virgin, to provide consumers with the assurance that the oil is actually extra virgin, and to provide producers and marketers that meet the certification standard with a means to distinguish their product in the marketplace.

In order for a producer to gain certification, they must submit their oil to the COOC panel of tasters for a sensory evaluation, as well as a chemical analysis, performed by a COOC certified laboratory. The panel of tasters has undertaken a training and certification program, and undergoes ongoing training. Their role is to ascertain an oil's defects, such as musty, rancid or greasy, as well as desirable attributes such as fruity, bitter or pungent.

According to Wiggins, SB 634 will “provide consumers with better information, facilitate the increased export of California olive oils, and help spur adoption of national standards.”

SB 634 is sponsored by the COOC, as well as the North American Olive Oil Association.

Additional supporters include Araujo Estate Wines, California League of Food Processors, California Olive Ranch, Carriage Vineyard, Carriere Family Farms, Cullen Creek Olive Oil, DeCamilla-Franch Olive Orchard, Family Winemakers of California, La Rusticana d'Orsa Vineyards, Long Meadow Ranch, Oakville Grocery Company, Ojai Oil Company, Olive Growers Council of California, the Olive Press, the Pasta Shop, Starcross Community and West Coast Producers.

Wiggins represents California’s large 2nd Senate District, which stretches from Humboldt County to Solano County and also includes portions or all of Lake, Mendocino, Napa and Sonoma Counties. David W. Miller
Press Secretary/Consultant
Senator Patricia Wiggins, Chair
Committee on Public Employment & Retirement
Select Committee on California's Wine Industry
Joint Committee on Fisheries & Aquaculture
Tel: (916) 651-1897
Fax: (916) 324-3036

It is with great sadness that I acknowledge the passing of my friend Betty Pustarfi, the founder of Strictly Olive Oil, on May 6th, 2008.

For many years I knew Betty through her work in the specialty foods industry. She founded Jones & Bones (she was Bones) in Capitola, California with Jennifer Jones in 1984, which rose to prominence as one of California’s best gourmet retailers. Her research into the store’s many offerings established Betty as an expert on olive oil; after launching her own business Strictly Olive Oil she created olive oil tasting bars in several retail venues and at festivals such as the annual TomatoFest in Carmel, California. Betty’s expertise extended to balsamic vinegars and mustards as well; we laughed together at the thought of changing the business name to Not So Strictly Olive Oil!

Betty and I became friends in 2006 when I expressed my interest in purchasing her business. I then learned that food was actually Betty’s 3rd career. After high school graduation Betty enlisted in the Air Force and rose to the rank of Staff Sergeant during the Korean War; I love the photo of her standing with then General Eisenhower. She temporarily left the service to earn her Bachelors Degree in English from Arizona State University, and then returned to military service by enlisting in the Army where she became First Lieutenant.

After her honorable discharge in 1957 Betty rejoined civilian life and began a long career in corporate communications. But as with so many of us in the food industry, her love of all-things-culinary lured her into the gourmet world, where she became one of the industry’s most passionate voices on the quality and authenticity of food.

Highlights of Betty’s culinary career included participating in the early days of the California Olive Oil Council (COOC) as well as working with the International Olive Oil Council (IOOC). She traveled to Tunisia, Turkey and Australia to both learn and teach about olive oil. She conducted tasting seminars throughout the U.S.; she was a popular presenter at several NASFT Fancy Food Show Educational Seminars.

In fact one of my favorite Betty anecdotes (there are so many from which to choose!) was from a Fancy Food Show. I was in a booth offering samples of balsamic vinegar when an attendee began asking several questions. We spoke about the Italian classifications of Traditionale and Condimento which unfortunately are not used nor understood in the U.S. This person then informed me that she had just listened to Betty’s presentation on balsamics, had been a retailer for years and yet had never heard these terms and was actually confirming this "new" information. At the time, Betty and I may have been working on different sides of the booth, but we were working towards the same goals.

When I heard that Betty was planning to retire, I immediately knew that I was destined to purchase Strictly Olive Oil and continue her work. During our "negotiations" (I use the term loosely since it involved indulgent lunches which were quite fun) I confessed that I had always coveted the name "Strictly Olive Oil" as it succinctly defined my career choices as well as hers. Betty was proud to be a gifted wordsmith and had planned to return to writing poems and "Poor Betty’s Hubris (Almanac)" in her retirement. Jennifer (Jones) recently described Betty as "living large without apologies". I always found Betty’s insights educational, her humor infectious, her passion inspirational, and her feistiness a not-so-gentle push in the right direction. I will miss her dearly.

In addition to her life partner Jennifer, Betty is survived by her sister, brother-in-law, niece and nephews. (Go to http://www.legacy.com/MercuryNews/DeathNotices.asp?Page=LifeStory&PersonID=110096459 to read Betty’s obituary and leave a note in the guest book.) Contributions in Betty's memory can be made to Dominican Hospital/Dominican Home Health Care, 1555 Soquel Dr., Santa Cruz, CA 95065.

State of the Crop

by Caroline J. Beck - 5/20/2008

Part I: Early Indications

As olive trees across California came into bloom the first week of May, a few variables pointed to mixed projections about the total volume the industry can expect for the fall harvest of 2008. Up and down the coast, most small and mid-sized oil producers reported heavy bloom and were optimistic that this year may produce a bumper crop. Even California Olive Oil Council Executive Director, Patty Darragh said there is every indication that California extra virgin olive oil production will surpass 750,000 gallons this year. In doing so, California will jump ahead of France’s expected production levels on the worldwide scale for the first time. Heavy bloom can usually be a strong indication of a bumper crop, but not always. Dewey Lucero, owner of Lucero Olive Oil who manages over 500 acres of olives including orchards in Tehama and Butte counties and as far south as Sacramento, was reservedly optimistic. ”To be honest, it’s hard to tell this early in the year. Sometimes, a great bud start doesn’t result in heavy fruit and sometimes we’ll have a year with fewer buds, but everything turns to fruit,” said Lucero. “My grandpa who has been farming olives for over 60 years has always said, ‘We just won’t know (what the harvest will bring) until July’,” he added.

Paul Vossen, of UC Davis, reported that the freeze this year in the northern counties was very minor and will not appear to have any affect on volume. Vossen also shared the point-of-view that it will be difficult to judge total crop potential until mid-June.

He echoed comments received from Adin Hester of the Olive Growers Council of California, who remarked, “The answer in a nutshell is there are still too many variables. Factors like poor pollination; or excessive heat could result in a June drop.” For many of the largest producers, the pattern of smaller crops in alternate years point to a light crop for the ’08-’09 harvest year. Hester said, “All told, we anticipate the crop to be down a little bit, or 75-85% of total tonnage from the heavy production of the ’07-’08 season.”

Of all the growers we spoke with, Shari De Young, orchard manager for McEvoy Ranch in Sonoma County, near Petaluma, reported the latest start to the season. “We’re only just beginning to get bloom, which is slightly later than some previous years. Although we are in a more coastal region than many olive growers, this was a particularly cold year for us. The full bloom is probably two weeks off and will finish by the end of May, if it stays hot,” she said.

Edie Kausch of Ink Grade Farm, a smaller Northern California producer who recently won a Double Gold medal at the Las Vegas International Restaurant Show for Ink Grade’s Italian Blend reported similar expectations. “We are in Pope Valley – just in the eastern hills of the Napa Valley, almost 1600 feet up.” Kausch went on to explain “Because we are at a higher elevation, we get our bud break three weeks later than the valley floor. We are very fortunate that we are just now getting bloom. The early frost didn’t hit us at all.” At the other end of the geographic spectrum in Southern California, Tom Curry of the Temecula Olive Oil company reported that early weather conditions favored a strong year. “We have had some good rain here, down only %5 from normal levels,” Curry said. “Right now, there appears to be lots of flowers. We are in an area that is also blessed with no freeze, so that’s never been an issue for us. All in all, it looks like we should have a pretty strong year.”

Moving to the Central region – represented by highly varied microclimatic zones – the reports are much the same. Whether coastal or inland, Central Coast growers report strong flowering and bud break, albeit slightly behind the typical growing season calendar. “Our trees have lots of flowers, although no trace of fruit yet. Some trees in the little valley in our orchard were clearly affected by the frost, but others are loaded. It looks like we are a little behind, time-wise, compared to previous years,” reported Antoinette Addison of Figueroa Farms in the Santa Ynez valley.

Peter Bell, a grower in the same region has witnessed a similar strong start to the growing season, but has concerns about the potential effect of high winds, especially at this time of year. Feedback from Robbie Robbins of the Robbins Family Farm summed up the sentiment shared by most growers we interviewed. While surveying the orchard, he said, “The crop looks like it could be huge. Although we also have wind here, it could be our biggest year ever. In another month or so, we should know what will hold. It’s incredible. I’ve never seen as many flowers as we have right now.”

Part II of this report will be issued later in the season when the variables described by the growers are narrowed. At this time, however, all reports indicate a very strong year for California olive oil.



Caroline J. Beck is a food and wine writer and a columnist for the Santa Ynez Valley Journal. She divides her time between California and the shores of Lake Huron in Michigan. She began her career in strategic marketing for companies such as Apple Computer and Microsoft and went on to head up entrepreneurial adventures in the entertainment business for Sony. Her most recent past life included an olive ranch and a thriving business in olive oil and specialty foods. She can be reached at carolinejbeck@hotmail.com.